Costco Kirkland Signature Cognac Vs Hennessy: Which Is Superior?

Producers have been practicing the art of fermenting and distilling fruits and grains into spirits for centuries. In the Cognac region of France, distillers do this with grapes, turning them into what the French call eau-de-vie, meaning "water of life." The process began in the region in the 15th century when Dutch traders arrived in the region, equipped with copper pots, hoping to distill wine into liquor. Since 1936, when regional protections and regulations were put into place by the French government, establishing the region as an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, meaning a controlled appellation of origin. Only brandy from the Cognac region can be labeled cognac. 

One of the top cognac brands is Hennessy. The brand has curated a respected reputation for the high quality of its spirits, including its VS cognac. In 2024, Costco introduced its Kirkland Signature VS cognac as a new brandy option for its liquor department. To determine which VS brandy is better, the tried-and-true historic Hennessy brand or the new Kirkland Signature, I acquired bottles of both, putting them to a taste test. In doing so, I utilized my skills as a Certified Sommelier, spirits writer, cognac drinker, and loyal Costco shopper. Over the course of several days, I tried the products side-by-side, poured neat, over ice, and in cocktails, observing similarities and differences while considering the provenance of the brands behind each label. Here are the results.

Some recommendations are based on firsthand impressions of promotional materials and products provided by the manufacturer.

While all cognac is a type of brandy, not every brandy can be cognac. Only those from the designated region within western France are genuine cognacs. The area's terroir, characterized by cool temperatures, the maritime influence of the Atlantic Ocean, and chalky, limestone soils, enables Cognac's ugni blanc fruit to develop its nuanced characteristics. Grapes experience a classic fermentation process similar to that of all wine production, before undergoing a double distillation in small copper pot stills known as Charentais stills. Producers must complete the entire process, including both distillations, by March 31 of the year following the autumn grape harvest. 

The clear liquor then ages in French oak barrels, where it develops characteristics that include warm spice notes, caramel, vanilla, and nutty, toasted flavors, while transforming the color from clear to a deep, rich amber color. The barrel's effect on cognac is similar to what oak aging does to whiskey, rum, or tequila. The amount of time the cognac spends in oak determines the oak's effect on the spirit, with longer periods lending more aroma and flavor than those that spend less time. 

Cognac that ages a minimum of two years in oak barrels is labeled with the quality designation of VS, meaning "very special." The entry-level category spirit is light, fruity, aromatic, and youthful in comparison to those aged extensively. These fresh characteristics make VS cognac the perfect base for cocktails. The VS flavor will complement rather than dominate other ingredients.

Membership has its privileges. Costco members benefit from the savings the wholesaler receives by buying items in bulk. Costco passes savings on to its members, offering low prices on name-brand items like Hennessy. Costco provides the Hennessy VS and Kirkland Signature VS in 1.75-liter bottles. While the name-brand Hennessy is more expensive than Kirkland, it is still well-priced in comparison to the price that other liquor stores sell the bottle for, which can cost $30 to $50 more than Costco. At the time of writing, the Hennessy bottle at my local Costco is $69.99, and the Kirkland Signature bottle is $49.99. 

The benefit of being a large production, name-brand product like Hennessy is that the cognac is widely available outside of Costco at liquor and grocery stores nationwide and internationally. Retailers offer the bottle with the classic Hennessy label as well as bottles adorned with labels featuring Hennessy's brand ambassadors and limited collector's editions, such as the sample bottle I have featuring LeBron James. The Kirkland Signature VS cognac is available at Costco locations across the country where liquor is sold.

Hennessy is one of the largest producers and one of the best-selling cognac brands. It is a leader in the region for its environmentally sustainable work efforts, with a history dating back to 1765. It introduced the VS designation cognac in 1865, known at the time as Three Star. Hennessy's VS designation emerged in the 1970s. 

Hennessy includes a blend of 40 different brandies made from ugni blanc grapes in its VS. The brandy rests for a minimum of two years in new French Limousin oak barrels sourced from sustainably managed forests and cellared throughout the Cognac region in areas with varying humidity and temperature levels. The contrasts affect the cognac's final taste and mouthfeel, adding dimension and texture to the spirit. 

Tasting Hennessy neat revealed the classic bright, fresh fruitiness of VS cognac on the front palate, showing notes of ripe oranges, dried figs, and plums. Bold yet balanced spice notes of nutmeg and allspice, vanilla, and roasted almond, characteristics that oak aging lends to spirits, complement the fruit's flavors. The 40% alcohol by volume liquor brings an initial ethanol bite. However, this softens as the cognac breathes and evolves in the glass, or when enjoying with ice. The ice softens the perception of alcohol, allowing subtle characteristics to come to the forefront. The cognac's rich viscosity, mouth-coating texture, and well-rounded flavor was intriguing. The overall palate is much drier than other VS cognacs, which worked well in cocktails as Hennessy's flavor remained at the forefront.

Like many of Kirkland Signature's products, neither the website nor the label includes specific details on Costco's VS cognac. Although the bottle I purchased includes the producer's name, Jules Duret, and location, there is no information on where the ugni blanc grapes come from in the region, the type of oak used, or where the cognac ages. Jules Duret is a subsidiary of Louis Royer, in the small town of Jarnac near the Charente River, since 1853. When Costco released the product in 2024, bottles at some locations listed the producer as Maison Peyrat, the brand behind Costco's other premium cognac, Kirkland Signature XO cognac.  

The first impression upon tasting Kirkland Signature VS from Jules Duret neat was its sweetness and a powerful oak presence. Flavors of dried raisins, plums, and caramelized sugar mixed with toasted oak and vanilla coat the palate with candy-like sweetness. While initially pleasant, after the first sip, the cognac's front palate became too overly sweet, leading to a slightly bitter, oaky character on the back. Though VS is a youthful cognac, the 40% alcohol by volume product lacked balance and structure, and fell flat on the finish. Adding ice diluted some of the bitterness while mellowing the sweetness, making it more palatable. Mixing the product with strongly flavored mixers, like ginger ale, resulted in the soda dominating the taste, which is how I would recommend drinking it if you decide to purchase. 

VS cognac is the lightest and most fruit-forward style, making it a complementary base for classic cocktails and modern variations. While older cognacs, such as 14-year-old XXO cognac or a 25-year-old Réserve cognac, are better suited for sipping neat, VS is best either on the rocks with lots of ice or in cocktails. The proper glassware for cognac depends upon the style. The best way to drink cognac that has aged extensively is in a tulip-shaped glass or brandy snifter with a large bowl that narrows at the top. 

When serving VS cognac, the best option is a lowball tumbler, ideal for cocktails like a French Connection, which combines amaretto with cognac. Or consider a coupe glass for serving a classic sidecar cocktail with Cointreau orange liqueur and lemon. I preferred these cocktails with the Hennessy VS cognac versus the Costco option. Hennessy's toasty, nutty richness and balanced flavor complement the citrus characteristics in the sidecar, and enhance the amaretto's almond notes in the French Connection. 

As VS ages for the shortest amount of time, its flavors are not as overtly oaky or heavily spiced as those that age longer, making it also an excellent choice to use in cooking. Ina Garten uses cognac in her beef stew to deglaze the pan, adding richness and depth of flavor. Cognac is also a favorite ingredient in Garten's pound cake recipe. The sweetness of Kirkland Signature's option would work well in this instance.

Hennessy's cognac is a well-balanced, well-made representation of VS. While it does not exhibit the robust complexity and long-lasting finish that cognacs with extensive aging bring, such as VSOP with a minimum of four years of oak aging or XO cognac, which ages a minimum of 10 years. Still, Hennessy delivers a VS with authentic character, displaying Cognac's terroir, while working with forward-thinking sustainability initiatives. 

Conversely, I found the oaky bitterness and sugared sweetness of the Kirkland Signature product resulted in a cognac that lacked polish, altering the overall drinking experience. While the two-year-old product should have a fresh, youthful profile and easy-drinking character, Costco's cognac was flat, with little complexity, texture, or richness, and unbalanced sweetness. 

The taste of Hennessy's cognac kept me engaged and going back for more. While sipping the cognac neat revealed viscous texture and bold character, adding ice brought about subtle nuances, which were further enhanced in cocktails with additional liqueurs like Cointreau and vermouth. Costco's option is less expensive, so if you are only using cognac for cooking purposes to add depth of flavor to a dish, the Kirkland product is an acceptable option. However, for drinking purposes, whether in cocktails or pouring over a few ice cubes, Hennessy's quality and character make it the obvious choice, even with the higher price tag. Hennessy is more expensive than Costco's brand. Still, buying a handle of Hennessy VS at Costco instead of other retailers will likely save you a few bucks. 

In conducting this side-by-side taste test, I utilized my experience and training as a Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, and wine and spirits writer with over 20 years of experience. To determine which VS cognac is best, I tried the products neat without ice, on the rocks, and in classic cocktails and straight forward two-ingredient cocktails, including mixing the cognacs with ginger beer, a 1920s cocktail favorite, the sidecar with Cointreau and lemon juice, and the Delmonico, mixing each cognac with  La Copa Rojo sweet vermouth and a dash of bitters. 

While both options were drinkable in cocktails, the richness and depth of Hennessy's flavor remained intact when mixed with other ingredients. The taste of Costco's cognac receded into the background, falling flat, particularly when combined with the ginger beer and the sweet vermouth. Additionally, Hennessy was drinkable neat, a trait I did not find with Kirkland Signature's. 

While tasting, I also considered the provenance, availability, and cost of the cognacs. While the price of Hennessy is higher, its widespread availability makes it an attractive option. Both products are from historic producers within Cognac. However, Hennessy's transparency in detailing its vineyard locations, production process, blending specifications, and the steps it takes to achieve a high quality earned the product high marks. Still, in the end, I found Hennessy's overall taste and the cognac's balance to be the deciding factor when determining which product is superior, tipping the scales in Hennessy's favor.