Dining

Spread Eagles

Rillettes made with classic French technique and California flavors
Wooden Spoons
Wooden Spoons' duck rillettes

"We love duck fat," says Julie Gordon, co-owner of Wooden Spoons.

Oh, how we agree, especially when it's smeared across a slice of toasted baguette.

Gordon and husband Brian Johnson, who worked as a butcher in his youth, have made rillettes for years, but only four months ago did they finally start selling the soft, spreadable charcuterie to the public.

Pale orange salmon rillettes ($16 for six ounces, $20 for eight), the most straightforward of Wooden Spoons' three varieties, are enriched with butter, the meat imbued with the scents of shallots and Pernod.

Duck fat caps each jar of aromatic pork rillettes ($10 for four ounces, $14 for six), Marin Sun Farms meat marinated with Calvados and star anise, then braised until the meat falls apart.

And the flavor of the fat reigns over the duck rillettes ($10 for four ounces, $14 for six), Liberty duck slowly cooked with white wine, thyme and other herbs, then shredded.

Until Wooden Spoons' Good Eggs store is up and running in a few weeks, Johnson and Gordon are taking orders online and will arrange bi-weekly delivery or pickup at their Berkeley kitchen.

Which should give you enough time to work up an appetite.

Wooden Spoons, 510-507-7373 or woodenspoons-sf.com

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