That isn’t lemon meringue or strawberry-rhubarb in the antique refrigerated pie case slowly spinning in the front window of Gorge in West Hollywood.
No, its rotating tiers are loaded with traditional French charcuterie, including house-dried saucisson sec and luscious fromage de tête.
The pie case is a fitting welcome to the charming project from chef-owners Elia Aboumrad, a former Joël Robuchon sous chef and Top Chef Season 2 alum, and Uyen Nguyen, previously the pastry chef at Guy Savoy's Vegas restaurant.
The duo has channeled their inner Escoffier, specializing in old-guard French dishes like smoked oyster mousse topped with dill and jellied beef consommé ($15), and pig's-ear confit with black truffle and mushroom duxelles ($16).
For dessert, Nguyen conjures elegant varieties of St. Honoré cake ($10), a classic pastry layered with cream puffs, Chantilly cream, and delicate chocolate macarons.
Wine lovers will delight in the gleefully Francophilic wine list, curated by Darius Allyn, former wine director at Montage Beverly Hills.
Our most recent meal began with a tart cider from Normandy and ended with a glass of funky-dry Savennières, a fine winter pairing for a plump, coarsely ground Toulouse sausage, heady with the aroma of smoked bacon and roasted garlic ($22).
Gorge Charcuterie and Wine Bar, 8917 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 310-657-6328 or gorgela.com