The NYC Cafe I Visit For The Absolute Best Pastries In The City
The awning over Rudy's Bakery and Cafe in Ridgewood, Queens says "konditorei" – the German name for "pastry shop." Before food-writing, your reporter spent the better part of a decade manning coffee shops and pastry counters, and it is no mystery why Rudy's declines to peacock with a more ostentatious banner (especially in New York City's ultra-competitive confectionery scene). Many bakeries claim to know baking, but Rudy's actually does — and after one bite, you'll know real baking, too. A trip to Rudy's cures more than just a sweet tooth.
For me, that trip is a 12-minute walk. But, for foodies living outside of Ridgewood, the longer jaunt is a well-worthy admission price. New York isn't the city that never sleeps, it's the city that sleeps in late — and for your sorely-placed, early-rising reporter, that Rudy's walk typically happens in the still-blue morning coolness, a rare moment when the masses are in bed.
If you've never been, Ridgewood is a mostly residential neighborhood on the border where Brooklyn meets Queens. A 25-minute walk east of high-rent, high-fashion Bushwick, Ridgewood is in many ways a place people go to live when they're "settled." Or, more to the point, when the manic catwalk of Manhattan starts to feel more draining than exhilarating. In Ridgewood, the sidewalks are quieter. I go to (and sometimes read at!) weeknight poetry readings at Cassette, a warm basement venue. Endearingly-dumpy dives like Myrtle Pub offer buy-one-get-one happy hours. Directly across from Myrtle Pub sits Rudy's.
In front of 905 Seneca Avenue, two counter-height metal tables stand outside, even when it's 40 degrees out (I've sipped coffee here in a coat and gloves many times). But, inside is where the action is.
A Ridgewood pillar for 90 years
Step inside Rudy's to find all-over wood panelling. No ultra-bright lights or screens to shock the system. To the left, a glass pastry case spans the length of the bakery. Eight or so small tables stand in the back, sometimes housing a lone, no-less-content coffee drinker, or a shift of similarly-dressed scene heads, or sharp older ladies, or firefighters in full regalia, all talking quietly and never moving too fast. Patrons respect the cozy sanctity of the place, which is popular but not overrun — a rare intersection in today's New York.
Contributing to that acclaim is the fact that Rudy's has been continually operating since 1934. The bakery is run by Antonetta "Toni" Binanti, who immigrated to Queens from a town near Naples at the age of 13, when she began working with her uncle, Ralph Difonzo, at his bakery in Astoria. Nowadays, Binanti serves on the board of the Myrtle Avenue Business Improvement District. Her carrying, full voice can be heard chatting with customers or jotting down the details of a custom cake order on the phone.
As Binanti tells local news outlet @peopleofridgewood, "Rudy's was already a neighborhood staple [when Difonzo purchased it in the early 1980s] ... Ridgewood's diversity continues to influence our offering, while still honoring our traditional German recipes." Indeed, despite the influx of young professionals (a less-than-blameless demographic to which your reporter belongs), Ridgewood is mostly filled with folks from Germany, Poland, Croatia, Italy, and Ecuador – rich cultural history evidenced by beloved local businesses like Gottscheer Hall bar (where annual voting is held) and Hetman's Deli (best pickled beet salad ever). In addition to selling decades-perfected pastries, Rudy's keeps diversity alive and prices affordable in a city where both are becoming endangered. And, speaking of those pastries ...
My favorite order at Rudy's Bakery and Cafe
Inside Rudy's sprawling pastry case, foodies can find nearly every type of pastry imaginable, including vegan and gluten-free options, all baked fresh daily with 90-year know-how. The apple crumb cake slice (my favorite) is the layered dessert of your heartiest dreams. In ascending order, a bottom layer of dense pie crust is topped by gooey apple filling, fresh apple chunks, and a toothy top layer of spiced strudel that is never, ever dry. Call it magic (I certainly do). Craving something lighter? The cream cheese Danish showcases Rudy's expert skill for flaky pastry texture. Other honorable mentions: Pistachio biscotti. Cannoli. Human-head-sized cinnamon roll.
Rudy's is famed for its decorated layer cakes. If you dine inside, you'll hear the phone ring nonstop as customers call in orders, for events ranging from children's birthday parties to art gallery openings. But, most Ridgewood locals (myself included) know Rudy's as the place for a quick pastry and arguably one of the best cups of coffee in the city. I get a small "regular" (in New York, that means with cream and sugar) for a delicious, high-quality breakfast that supports an important local business and kicks the teeth outta McDonald's, where the same $8 will get you a bellyache and a spiritual sense of abject dread. For the savory-minded, Rudy's also sells breakfast sandwiches and bagels.
If it's nice out, take your pastry down the street to Rosemary's Playground for alfresco park dining. Pro tip: Hit Rudy's at exactly noon. Deep Cuts record store around the corner opens at 12 p.m.; here lies a tightly-packed collection of new, used, and highly-curated vinyls, often featuring the archival-revivals of the Numero Group label. Legendary two-stop bop. Plus, you can listen to your new record at home while digging into that coffee and pastry — at least, that's my Tuesday morning. I look forward to it all week.