The Unexpected Paste That Takes Your Goulash To The Next Level

Goulash has come a long way since 18^th century cattle-herders were sustaining themselves on the Great Hungarian Plain with a simple stew of beef, onions, lard, and dried chilis, and one need only compare the classic Hungarian-style recipe to the macaroni-boosted, chop suey-style American version to see how much the dish has evolved over the years. That's why, if you're aiming to elevate your goulash to comfort food at its most intensely flavorful, you shouldn't be afraid of adding something new and unexpected — when it comes to goulash, anchovy paste is a gamechanger.

It is no secret that anchovies can inspire strong opinions, particularly among their detractors. If the thought of snacking on a pungent, oily anchovy straight from the can makes you shiver with revulsion, fair enough (though frankly, you don't know what you're missing), but you shouldn't dismiss their flavor-boosting potential as an ingredient. As the chef and Food Network host Giada de Laurentiis observed, "even folks who claim to hate anchovies love the recipes they star in — after all, who doesn't like a Caesar salad?" So if you've ever reached for the Worcestershire sauce (which typically contains anchovy) while cooking, you may have to face the fact you don't dislike its divisive flavor as much as you think.

The base of a great traditional goulash is good Hungarian paprika, caramelized onions, and beef slow-cooked until gloriously tender, and it is during this long, patient cooking process that the anchovy paste will work its magic. For those who are concerned, your goulash will not end up tasting overwhelmingly of anchovy — rather, a tablespoon or so of the paste, stirred in as you gently fry your onions, will introduce a subtle yet transformative element of umami, the much-prized fifth taste after sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.

If the thought of an anchovy paste-enriched goulash appeals to you, there are numerous brands that should be easy to find. If you are unable to lay your hands on some, a similar effect can be achieved by adding some finely diced canned anchovy fillets to your stew, though anchovy paste is quicker, more convenient, and precludes the possibility of tiny anchovy bones surviving the cooking process.

Goulash is far from the only meat dish that benefits from the inclusion of this secret ingredient, however — anchovy paste will have a similarly welcome impact on classics like beef stew, ragù alla Bolognese, beef Bourguignon, and even sloppy Joe sauce. If you're feeling adventurous and trying to decide whether to incorporate a little anchovy paste into a recipe that does not call for it, think about whether the dish would be improved by the heightened umami it provides. Of course, if you're a dedicated anchovy lover, you'll know your own tastes better than anyone — so if you feel like adding more than a spoonful to the pot, who are we to judge?