Italy's Fashion Capital Is Also Home To One Of The Richest Variations Of Risotto

Milan is home to about 3.2 million people, a relatively small group of foodies considering the city's massive global contribution in putting some of the most beloved Italian dishes worth trying on the map. Today, we're taking a closer look at Risotto alla Milanese, a regional dish hailing from northern Italy's Lombardy region. Like many dishes belonging to this epicurean oeuvre, Risotto alla Milanese is the result of straightforward ingredients expertly prepared – cucina povera philosophers, rise up. Still, the recipe does require two fancy ingredients: saffron and bone marrow. The bone marrow is somewhat optional, but the saffron is a must. This highly-pigmented spice gives the risotto its signature golden hue and equally luxe taste.

Fittingly, this aesthetic dish's origin story is rooted in the arts, and in the history of fashion-forward Milan itself. The dominant theory suggests that Risotto alla Milanese was first invented in 1574 by glassmakers crafting the stained glass windows of city's Duomo cathedral. Per the lore, one of the artisans working under Mastro Valerio was so interested in saffron's pigmented effects that he added a pinch to every dye he worked with, earning himself the nickname, Zafferano (the Italian word for saffron). Many joked Zafferano would even end up adding saffron into risotto — and indeed, one day he did, on the wedding day of Mastro Valerio's daughter. The guests were wowed by the pretty, golden-hued dish, and foodies are still enjoying it centuries later.

True of many Italian culinary classics, Risotto alla Milanese may be simple in terms of ingredients, but an element of technique is involved to make those ingredients come together. Onions and rice (specifically, carnaroli or arborio) are toasted in butter and melted bone marrow for richer flavor. Then, the onions and rice are splashed with dry white wine, before an intensely flavored beef stock – infused with golden saffron — is slowly added in until the rice is cooked to al dente. To finish, the rice and onions are stirred with a generous amount of butter and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano to give the risotto a velvety texture and a glossy sheen. 

Other recipe variations may add porcini mushrooms, white truffle, or shrimp into the mix, but these are less common and not as traditional. However, you could opt for vegetable stock and only use butter instead of bone marrow in your recipe for a vegetarian risotto that delivers similarly rich flavors.

Risotto alla Milanese is traditionally served with an extra topping of cheese (or fresh parsley) and paired with a glass of red wine. Another decadent Milanese classic, ossobuco veal, is also commonly served on a bed of Risotto alla Milanese. All this talk of risotto made you hungry? We have 13 more risotto recipes you'll want to make on repeat. Otherwise, if you find yourself abroad, check out our guide for where to eat and drink like a local in Milan.