This Old-School Chicago Italian Spot Earned Anthony Bourdain's Stamp Of Approval
Anthony Bourdain was famous for taking American viewers around the world and into corners of the food world few knew anything about. The man loved an old-school meal as much as anyone. While Bourdain shared his love of off-the-beaten-path street food, and reveled in the diversity of international cuisine, he wasn't shy about touting well-known institutions that still served great food. So, it's no surprise that when he made another stop in Chicago on "Parts Unknown" that he ended up platforming a classic Italian establishment Topo Gigio Ristorante.
Founded in 1988 and located on Wells Street in Old Town Chicago, Topo Gigio is almost stereotypically old-school Italian. It's dark, packed full of white-clothed tables, and the brick and painted plaster walls are covered in the obligatory (but always charming) photos of celebrity guests, including Jerry Seinfeld and former U.S. President Bill Clinton. The portions are big and the menu is filled with familiar Italian American mainstays like cacciatore, parmesan, and saltimbocca, with a few house specials to mix things up.
The only thing helping it stand apart at first would be a big statue of the namesake "Topo Gigio" character, a cartoon mouse that is popular in Italy. As Bourdain puts it in the "Parts Unknown" episode: "Topo Gigio is a massive Italian American joint in the Old Town that serves up much-better-than-you'd-think old-school stuff." Sounds like the perfect Windy City adventure worthy of Bourdain's list of favorite Chicago restaurants.
Topo Gigio in Chicago's Old Town serves high-quality versions of Italian American classics
Bourdain went to Topo Gigio with a man named Bruce Cameron Elliott, owner of another staple in the same neighborhood, Old Town Ale House. Always a good sign when another local business owner gives his neighbor the stamp of approval. The menu at Topo Gigio is heavy on seafood, especially for the appetizers and pasta, and Bourdain went that way for both.
To start, he ordered seared scallops, an appetizer served with roasted red peppers in a pesto cream sauce. His pasta, however, was either a special or simply isn't on the menu anymore, but he sampled a squid-ink pasta with shrimp. And finally, for his secondi (that's the meat) veal saltimbocca, the Italian restaurant standby with prosciutto and a white wine sage sauce. But you don't need to eat like Bourdain to have a great meal at Topo Gigio.
Nearly every Italian-American classic you love is somewhere on the menu, and the fact that the place is usually packed with locals is proof enough that most of them are great. Aside from spaghetti and meatballs, frutti di mare, eggplant parmesan, and risotto, a particular favorite is Joe's Salad, which is loaded with mozzarella, parmesan, avocado, artichoke, capers, and more. Or you can try something a little different and get the smoked salmon pasta in tomato cream sauce. And if the weather is nice, try and score a seat on the charming patio out back. We're sure Bourdain's recommendation won't let you down.