From New York To Dublin: The Restaurant Bread That Inspired Its Own Bakery

When John and Sandy Wyer opened Forest Avenue more than 13 years ago, they set out to create a fine dining experience anchored in local ingredients and personal history. Named after the street where Sandy was raised in Queens, the Dublin restaurant braids New York influence with Irish hospitality — a combination that has led to an unexpected following for bread. 

"I am always inspired by things from my childhood and the vast culinary influences in New York," Sandy told Tasting Table. This perspective shines in Forest Avenue's ambiance and menus, where local ingredients are used to build tasting menus. Diners regularly rank Forest Avenue as one of Dublin's best. "It was one of the most memorable meals we have both experienced and have been raving about to anyone we talk to," wrote a guest on Google. 

During the Covid-19 pandemic, Forest Avenue found an even buzzier audience, largely due to its bread. When lockdowns forced down operations, the Wyers converted their space into a New York-style deli or, as Sandy describes, a kind of green gourmet grocer. John, who was used to baking around 10 loaves a day, was now producing hundreds. In addition to Forest Avenue's signature sourdough, sandwich loaves, and sourdough focaccia helped accommodate increasing demand. Among those sampling the bread were the owners of Bunsen Burgers who proposed the idea of a bakery to the Wyers. After partnering with a local head baker, the team opened UNA, an artisan bakery built around John's bread.

Even with over a decade in the making, John never intended for his bread to be produced at such a scale, but as soon as loaves are pulled out of the oven and placed on display, they are snatched by UNA's customers. "We have been told by many that it is the best sourdough bread in Ireland, and we are very proud of that," Sandy told Tasting Table. "John has put a lot of heart and soul into his sourdough." Fans are vocal about their love for the bread. "Best bread ever," wrote one on Instagram. "This bread is phenomenal," added another.

On weekends, lines form before opening hours. The bread receives consistent praise, and UNA's appeal has grown to include pastries and coffee. Sandy's New York influence can be seen in the pastry program, like chocolate chip cookies that reference classic, chewy New York recipes, to viennoiserie developed from her own pastry chef background. In November, croissant pecan pies make seasonal appearances, and aromas waft out of the doors tempting those outside.

Sourdough remains a centerpiece, however. Crisp on the outside and spongy within, this is the kind of bread that requires significant restraint to not gobble in one sitting. "The absolute highlight is their sourdough bread," agrees a bakery customer on Google. Sliced thick and topped with a generous slather of Irish butter, this is an easy pleasure that can brighten any rainy day in Dublin.