4 Los Angeles Delis That Never Disappoint, According To A Lifelong Resident
As a lifelong Los Angeles resident, the descendant of Eastern European immigrants who originally settled in West L.A., and a proud Jewish woman, I'm lucky to have grown up around some of the best Jewish delis in the U.S. I've seen favorite spots come and go, while others try their best but fail to measure up — and even still, I've managed to discover new-to-me hidden gems. Within LA's overwhelmingly expansive area, my four favorite delis are Langer's near MacArthur Park, Canter's in Fairfax, Brent's in either Northridge or Westlake Village, and Country Deli in Chatsworth.
Though all four offer a variety of traditional Jewish foods — including smoked fish, cold-cut sandwiches, and more — it's worth noting that none are kosher. All of the restaurants include both milchig (milk and dairy) and fleishig (meat and poultry) dishes, as well as pork and other treif (unkosher) items on the menu. Depending on your personal level of observance and specific dietary needs, there is still plenty to enjoy. For the purposes of this article, I will be focusing primarily on foods you'll commonly find at a Jewish deli.
I spent my formative years dining at these delis, taking in life lessons, good food, and a deeper understanding of my heritage. Between warm memories of meals shared with family and friends, it was at these delis that I developed a profound appreciation for the power of food to bring people together and strengthen communities.
Langer's (MacArthur Park)
Langer's is the West Coast gold standard to which I hold any other deli pastrami in comparison. It's one of the first places I ever had a high-quality pastrami sandwich, and it's thanks to my late mother for bringing me there and showing me the way. Though many insist the #19 is your best bet, my mom used to say, "I'm a purist." A basic hot pastrami on rye with deli mustard is my go-to order. Truly, that's all you'll need to see why this is one of a handful of iconic pastrami sandwiches from across the US. Save the coleslaw and Russian dressing for the side, and just enjoy the magic of meat, bread, and spicy deli mustard.
If you've only ever had limp, thin slices of pastrami, this will be a culture shock. Langer's famous pastrami is a far cry from basic store-bought cold cuts. Prepare your palate and appetite for thick, smoky cuts of fatty pastrami that –- and I say this with no exaggeration -– melts in your mouth like no other.
You likely already know that ordering a deli sandwich on white bread is a mistake to avoid when dining at a Jewish deli, and it certainly would be a shanda (shame) when a Langer's pastrami sandwich is practically tailor-made for the crusty, double-baked rye bread from Los Angeles bakery, Fred's. If you have a sweet tooth, get a tall glass of house-made cream soda to wash everything down.
Canter's (Fairfax)
In addition to it being a notorious hangout for bands like Guns N' Roses, Canter's deli is where I spent nearly every weekend brunching during my adolescence. I have many fond memories of grilled corned beef hash, bagels, and bakery items galore. With late night hours and 24/7 take-out availability, this deli is an L.A. institution. Additionally, its legendary Kibitz Room cocktail lounge has long been the setting of informal jam sessions for popular musicians.
While I'm personally partial to the smaller and denser "sinker" style matzoh balls, I have yet to find a deli anywhere that makes them just the way my late bubbie did. As such, Canter's marvelous "mish mosh" soup, and its ginormous fluffy matzoh ball, has my heart. Orbiting around the matzoh ball in a savory chicken broth is a generous portion of kreplach, rice, and noodles that will undoubtedly fill you up with warmth and comfort.
For those curious about cold cuts, my recommendation is to order an assorted deli plate and load up on hot corned beef, salami, and pickled tongue. If you've never tried tongue before, this is the place to do so. The plates also come with a side of bread and your choice of coleslaw or potato salad, meaning you can experiment with new flavors and assemble a sky-high sandwich of your own creation. And don't sleep on the chocolate bells, chocolate chip cheesecake, and cookie dough hamantaschen from the bakery for dessert!
Brent's (Northridge and Westlake Village)
I became a regular nosher at the Brent's deli in Northridge during my years attending CSUN. The Northridge restaurant tends to get busier on weekends, and the Westlake Village seems a bit more spacious in comparison. That said, the menu is pretty much consistent between the two.
While I deeply miss the knockwurst Reuben that has long since disappeared from the menu, I suspect I might have been one of the few — if not the only — customer ordering it. One of my all-time favorites from Brent's is the cabbage soup, which is a brilliant bowl of sweet and sour cabbage and beef in a rich, tomato-forward broth. I still rib my goyishe (non-Jewish) husband about the first time I took him to Brent's, and he let out a yelp of unbridled joy upon his first sip of the soup.
Other dishes I adore include the stuffed kishka with farfel and kasha varnishkes, both of which were childhood favorites from my bubbie's and mother's kitchens. For the fish lovers, I recommend the Ron's Special Brunch fish plate, which offers diners the choice between lox, cod, whitefish, or baked salmon –- all of which are great choices -– accompanied by two eggs any style, home fries, and "all the coffee you can drink." This also comes with a bagel, a sizable shmear of cream cheese, sliced tomatoes and onions, and Greek olives. Truly, you can't go wrong with just about anything from the Brent's menu.
Country Deli (Chatsworth)
Country Deli in Chatsworth is a newer discovery I'm glad to have made, thanks to the recommendation of a couple dear friends. Come for the country vibes and beautiful wall murals, stay for the excellent food. In the section of its menu affectionately titled "The Nosh Bar," you'll find such favorites as knishes offered with either potato or beef brisket filling, potato latkes (served with both applesauce and sour cream upon request), chopped liver served with rye bread, onion, and tomato, and so much more.
For breakfast, I love ordering matzo brei with a latke on the side. Even though I'm typically a savory matzo brei devotee, I can't help it if some jam and applesauce occasionally make their way over to my breakfast plate! The house specialty beef brisket entree is a usual dinner fave, and the matzo ball soup is certainly no slouch either. I also have to give a special nod to Country Deli's "Frisco Kid" sandwich, because the name alone conjures up thoughts of one of my favorite offbeat Western films, featuring Harrison Ford and Gene Wilder.
My go-to from the Country Deli bakery has to be a big, luscious black and white cookie. Having baked my own at home from scratch, I have a deep appreciation for delis that can get this seemingly simple -– but, in truth, rather complex -– pastry right. All that and a Dr. Brown's Black Cherry soda, and I'm set.