The Airport Burger Anthony Bourdain Called 'Soul-Destroying'

Anthony Bourdain never shied away from sharing his opinion; it's one of the reasons he was so beloved by his peers as well as millions of fans. Not only was he refreshingly candid, but his opinions were rooted in thoughtful perspective, years of experience in the kitchen and with food across the globe, and an appreciation for quality not tied to elite status. When we learn about Anthony Bourdain's favorite dishes, for example, we know each one comes from an informed and creative worldview. They may appear at a Michelin-starred destination restaurant, a roadside greasy spoon, or a grandmother's kitchen. Bourdain adored street food, and his first stop in LA was always In-N-Out Burger — he was no snob. So, when he deemed a burger from a certain chain restaurant as "soul-destroying," you know that was one bad bite.

In 2016, Bourdain was a guest on Conan O'Brien's TBS late-night talk show "Conan," when O'Brien brought up the topic of fast food. Eventually, the conversation led to his worst airport meal, courtesy of Johnny Rockets. After a hungry Bourdain sought satisfaction at an airport location of the faux-1950s-style diner, he was served a half-hearted meal that included a cold patty halfway on its bun, a sad handful of greasy fries, and a limp pickle, despite the joint being fully staffed with no other customers. "Such things — rightly, wrongly — send me into a spiral of misery and depression that lasted three days," Bourdain quipped (via YouTube).

Bourdain has a way with words that spins the Johnny Rockets burger account from a bummer to a sardonically tragic and ultimately humorous saga. It's why so many of us treasure his books and repeatedly rewatch "No Reservations" or "Parts Unknown." But the culinary pro didn't snub Johnny Rockets to be snarky. After all, he had gone into that location with at least some level of expectation that he wouldn't get cold meat tossed on a bun, so he wasn't outright against the chain.

Indeed, Bourdain was always able to appreciate some fast foods in their own ways and could even find something positive about them. Bourdain confessed to loving Popeyes' macaroni and cheese and, in that same "Conan" interview, also showed some appreciation for KFC's mac and cheese as well. He added that these renditions were made with orange goo barely recognizable as cheese, but he was still willing to throw on a hoodie and hope no one recognized him when he headed to either chain with a craving.

But Bourdain wasn't alone in his Johnny Rockets feelings. On one Reddit thread titled "I miss Johnny Rockets," commenters point out the burgers are mediocre at best and generally inconsistent — others note that, since the chain is still very much around, it's not really "miss"-able. Likewise, various TripAdvisor reviews for different airport locations also deem the restaurant disappointing, flavorless, and even "atrocious," in one reviewer's words. So, next time you see an airport Johnny Rockets, maybe channel your inner Bourdain and look elsewhere.