Review: José Andrés FishSnax Bring Subtle Spanish Flavors To The Crowded Tinned Fish Market

José Andrés is everywhere these days. Seemingly, so is tinned fish. The two have a lot in common: Spanish roots and a penchant for feeding people when things are hard. Andrés' World Central Kitchen has never been harder at work than it is these days, and as the news media zeroes in on food-based recession indicators, it's clear why pantry staples like canned seafood have never been more sought after. It only feels natural that Andrés would lean into this related coincidence as his next big move. Now, the chef has released a new line of tinned seafood, in an homage to his home country and a play into a rapidly growing segment of the pantry staples market. The brand is called FishSnax.

As a D.C.-based food writer, I've had plenty of opportunities to eat at Andrés' restaurants since he began calling the city home during the '90s. As such, I've become familiar with the level of quality that's to be expected from the chef's associated endeavors. Paired with the fact that I'm a frequent flyer to bastions of conservas culture, and I felt a lot of intrigue over this chef-branded release. I wanted to know if this new arrival to the tinned fish market was something that met the standards of a "Chef's Table" legend.

Some recommendations are based on firsthand impressions of promotional materials and products provided by the manufacturer. Prices are as of the date of publication and may vary based on region.

Chef José Andrés' new line of canned fish, FishSnax, comes in four options: lemon-kissed sardines in extra virgin olive oil, sardines in extra virgin olive oil, traditional mussels in pickle sauce, and smoked octopus in olive oil. Each of these is a product of Spain. Some of these options, such as the mussels, come in similar flavors to an older product line of tinned fish branded under José Andrés Foods. At the moment, these two tinned seafood labels appear to be coexisting in the market.

Both of the sardines are soaked in extra virgin olive oil and salt, though one has lemon added to it. The mussels are in an escabeche sauce, which is a traditional Spanish pickle marinade packed with seasoning, and should add a bright tanginess to the seafood. Its ingredients include sunflower oil and "natural pickle flavoring." Finally, the FishSnax line's can of smoked octopus pieces come in olive oil, salt, and "natural smoke" flavor.

Beyond ingredients, the mussels carry a promise of 9 grams of protein per can, the sardines, 14 grams, and the octopus 15. Each tin is around 4 ounces. In the world of canned seafood, the need for sustainability tracing is of continuing importance. Both of the sardine offerings have Marine Stewardship Council seals, but the mussels and the octopus do not.

Does expensive canned fish taste better? It's an often-asked question, but there isn't a true, quantifiable answer, especially considering that the cost of tinned fish fluctuates regularly. Plus, there are a lot of variables affecting the cost of canned seafood. A more expensive price tag could indicate a healthy and more sustainable fishery. Alternatively, hand-packed tinned fish from artisanal producers or historic businesses might net higher prices based on name or brand recognition alone, even if the product is subpar.  

In this case, FishSnax does obviously rely on some heavy namedropping, but Andrés' name isn't leveraged into stratospheric luxury prices. The lemon-kissed sardines, sardines in extra virgin olive oil, and the mussels in pickle sauce are each sold online at $13.99. The smoked octopus is sold for a dollar more, at $14.99. Each of the FishSnax products is available for nationwide shipping on the José Andrés Foods website, and there doesn't seem to be word yet as to which, if any, grocery chains might carry FishSnax. 

Armed with a crusty baguette and a canapé fork, I unboxed the lemon-kissed sardines in extra-virgin olive oil first. Upon popping the top, my nose led me into a memory of dining seaside in the Mediterranean; the can let loose a whisper of citrus and oceanic aromas that mingled in a complementary and natural way and confirmed that "lemon-kissed" is a perfect way to brand this tin. Any lighter, and the clean and bright aroma might not have come through at all. Taking a closer whiff, I was glad to note that there was nothing stinky about the sardines. In fact, any hint of a fishy odor was suppressed behind the fragrant Spanish olive oil. 

The can was packed tightly with three large, plump sardine filets. Each one was fully wrapped in skin, and there were bone structures and spines present as well. However, the meat released from them easily. Once the bones were picked out, six dense filets awaited tasting, each with plenty of meaty flesh. The sardines were firm, flaky, and predominantly clean-tasting. As if planning to arrive late to the party for maximum effect, lemon entered only after the silky oil — a combination of fish and olives — coated my tongue. Just as with its aroma, the taste of the citrus was prominent but understated, and it freshened things up in an entirely welcome but unforeseen way: The lemon helped remediate any significant aftertaste. 

Fresh mussels, canned mussels, there is no mussel I will not eat, and so I looked toward the tin of mussels with relish. As it happens, relish was apt. FishSnax aimed for delicately pickled mussels here, and it hit the mark on aroma alone. I didn't count exactly, but on pulling back the tab I felt there was a healthy quantity of mussels in the tin, though I did note that it wasn't packed nearly as tightly t as my go-to mussel brand. Still, each was absolutely soaked in the escabeche sauce and was bright oil-red in color. The mix smelled briny and pungent, but not funky. 

When José Andrés Foods first released a grocery line in 2013, mussels escabeche were one of its first items. Being such a classic Spanish dish, it both makes sense and feels a little too convenient that a similar product was launched. At least the FishSnax product comes with a more accessible price point. That said, you don't feel like you're eating on the cheap with these mussels; they were springy yet tender, plump, and luxurious. Best of all, they were lacking the muskiness that a sub-quality mussel usually paints across your mouth. Instead, though, you have to deal with the dominating texture of oil, and I thought it was too slick for the escabeche. It took a little more time for the sourish pickle flavor to develop, and I was craving and wishing for the smallest amount of extra acidity to cut through the oiliness. The mussels lacked the same subtlety of the lemon-kissed sardines, which ended up hindering them.

Mostly, octopus is not something I order, ever. I've never purchased it from the fishmongers, either. Yet for all the time I've spent avoiding it, I've eaten so much of it, in a lot of different ways. Some of those instances have, unsurprisingly, happened in Spain, where this particular specimen was sourced — around Galicia. It felt helpful to have that familiarity before trying this tinned fish. It ended up being a product that moved me closer to becoming a convert. 

In terms of quantity, I'll say that this can of conservas felt like the roomiest of them all. There was some space for a few more pieces of octopus. The olive oil marinade was a bit darker than either of the sardine tins, and it lacked the faint floral scent of the EVOO that the other cans offered. I won't say the scent of smoke was lacking, but it came through mostly in drifts and traces. I actually found this to be far more preferable than if it had draped the octopus meat in a synthetic or acrid smell.

As it turned out, the scent of this canned octopus had a strong through line with the flavor, which was right on theme for the entire collection: high-quality fish given soft and understated accents. I could chew on the octopus pieces in a moreish way and not feel like my jaw was flexing a mouth-sized stress ball. A gummy piece of octopus is worse than a rubbery one, but not a piece in the marinade had a too-soft problem. On some bites, the smoke flavor was almost a whisper. When it appeared, the brooding shadow of it was just enough to add some contrasting bitterness.

There is a seemingly endless number of brands that exist in the canned sardine space, which should make the competition fierce. Yet somehow, it is also still pretty easy to buy an unappetizing tin of sardines. 

Low-quality oil. A bad processing method. Too much salt. Small fish, stinky fish. Fish that look mangy when you peel back the top. These are all disappointing traits that may greet you when you open your chosen can of sardines. At least, your non-FishSnax can of sardines might have these problems. To be fair, it's possible that another can of FishSnax could have these same issues as well, but in my sampling experience, FishSnax went two-for-two on the quintessential tinned fish. The sardines were once again high caliber, albeit, not without a few faults.  

Like its "lemon-kissed" counterpart, there were three whole sardines in this package, equaling six filets. The woodsy fruit of the extra virgin olive oil marinade offered a clearer color, without the cloud of lemon juice, and was a touch more pungent, too. Similarly, the flavor, texture, and aroma of the fish filets were almost identical to the first can I tried. Almost. The skin seemed to be less well preserved on most of these filets, and there were also a few pieces where the meat was excessively flaky, bordering on soggy. Despite that softer texture, the flavor remained plain (relative to sardines). That neutrality worked to the can's overall benefit, giving a natural and fresher flavor. 

Overall, each of these new offerings from chef José Andrés' eponymous food company shares some similar attributes. The seafood is high-class and very similar to the quality you would find at restaurants in Spain or Portugal, where conservas culture reigns. Given his history, experience, and expertise, you would expect Andrés to succeed here, and it's delightful when he does. While it doesn't add anything new or cutting-edge, FishSnax shows up as a strong choice in a classic category of pantry staples, leaning on name recognition in the most tasteful way possible. 

FishSnax isn't without its drawbacks or contradictions, however. Even though it comes in at a price point below José Andrés Foods' luxury line, at $14 per can, the price can feel prohibitive when there are other high-quality options out there for $5 less. All the same, that cost should imply you're paying for well-done seafood from a region of the world that's renowned for it. Two out of four cans also have conspicuously missing MSC labels. So, while the octopus may taste like it's coming from the waters of Spain, that doesn't inherently make it a sustainable choice.

In the end, what's best about these cans is that they feel like they've been touched by a chef. There is restraint in the ingredients and flavors, which makes them all the better to cook with. For example, adding a splash of fresh lemon to an arugula salad topped with the lemon-kissed sardines won't overwhelm the bowl with sourness, nor would including the smoked octopus in grilled spaghetti make things taste sooty. There's a careful consideration with FishSnax, one that opens up the possibility to enjoy these simply or get creative.