Alton Brown Thinks Everyone Should Own This Classic Cookbook
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Everyone has a favorite cookbook, whether it's a tried-and-true recipe companion, one that reminds us of beloved family traditions, or that one with amazing photos of dishes we only wish we could prepare. But what would a food celebrity like Alton Brown — who has penned plenty of cookbooks himself — consider the must-have cookbook for everyone's collection? In 2019, one fan asked him that exact question on a Reddit AMA. "As far as I'm concerned, everyone should own the 1962 edition of the "Joy of Cooking," Brown replied.
More than a cookbook, this is a piece of history as told by four generations of cooks, which began in 1931 when Missouri homemaker Irma Rombauer self-published a collection of recipes and cooking advice. 90 years and nine editions later, this trustworthy kitchen companion remains a favorite of many cooks, praised by the likes of Craig Claiborne and Julia Child. Where else can you find instructions on how to pluck, draw, dress, stuff, and truss a bird; recipes for tomato aspic, green goddess dressing, and shepherd's pie; and a whole section on canning, salting, smoking, and drying? "Joy" has it all and then some.
Personally, this book is where I go to when I need a basic recipe that will turn out exactly like I want it. Fluffy pancakes? Check. Chicken Kiev? Check. Perfect cornbread? Check. Plus, old-timey casseroles and ring molds, jellied salads, and forgotten recipes like chicken country captain, German sauerbraten, and baked Alaska. It also features oddities like tomato soup cake, pigs in potatoes, and braised trimmings of goose, among many others.
History of The Joy of Cooking
Although it has seen many updates and reincarnations, "Joy of Cooking" remains one of the best-selling cookbooks of all time, helping people who struggle to find the joy in cooking. Since the first edition in 1931, "Joy of Cooking" has sold more than 20 million copies. In 1936, the first commercial edition was published by Bobbs-Merrill. Marion Rombauer Becker, Irma's daughter, helped revise and update each subsequent edition until 1951. After Irma's passing in 1962, Marion took over the continued revisions and updates.
There is some controversy regarding the 1962 revision. It is often referred to as the "unauthorized edition" because Bobbs-Merrill published it without input or approval from the Rombauers and contained many errors of which Marion disapproved. The 1963 edition, completely revised and edited by Marion, is considered the true reprint of the 1962 version and perhaps the one praised by Brown. For the 1975 revision, which is the edition that I hold dear, Marion enlisted the help from her son, Ethan Becker, to include updated and expanded content. Together, they touch upon modern cooking techniques and ingredients.
Another controversy arose thanks to a new publisher and editor, as the 1997 edition practically dismissed the Rombauer's friendly, conversational approach, replacing it with a jumble of copy from over 100 chefs and cookbook writers. Thankfully, the 2006 edition restored the cheerful banter and tone. Since then, Irma's great-grandson, John Becker, and his wife, Megan Scott, have been fully responsible for testing, revising, and updating the book. Even if you don't cook from it (which you should), "The Joy of Cooking" is a joy to read as American history in the form of a quirky cookbook.