Where To Eat With 24 Hours In Old Montreal
There's nothing like a quick getaway to awaken the senses. Few things rival traveling to a new destination to explore its history, culture, and food. But, when you only have about 24 hours to spend, it's often hard to find a city worth visiting. That's where Montreal comes in. If you have one full day and a yearning for great gastronomy, innovative drinks, and palpable energy, Old Montreal delivers it all.
Old Montreal is a romantic, historic district in the city of Montreal. Located in the south-central part of the island, the network of narrow, picturesque streets lies steps from the St. Lawrence River and the scenic waterfront, the Old Port area. Old Montreal is also a short walk from Downtown Montreal, a more modern, commercial area of the island.
Crammed with cozy cafes, fine dining, and cute boutique shops, Old Montreal is a walkable, charming destination that deserves exploration. I was wholly enamored with the town and was able to see and do it all in a very short time. My whirlwind trip was planned in coordination with AC Hotels, and many of the drinking and dining recommendations were thanks to Chef Laurent Dagenais. There's so much to enjoy in Old Montreal, from the live street music on the winding cobblestone streets to the delicious food and cocktails. The next time you've got a hankering for fun, and about 24 hours to spare, put Old Montreal on your radar.
Awaken your senses at a cozy corner café
If you enjoy starting your day with a jolt of coffee, Café Olimpico is your spot. Nestled on the corner of a flower-lined, cobblestone street in the heart of Old Montreal, the coffee selection can't be beat. Mind you, the menu isn't large, but it's purposeful. You'll find the classic Italian offerings such as cappuccino, caffè latte, espresso, and macchiato, along with the espresso-based cortado. Customers can also get an Americano, and the menu also includes tea. But this is not Dunkin', so don't expect iced pumpkin spice lattes.
I love the backstory of this Montreal café. In 1970, Italian immigrant Rocco Furfaro opened a small local business with a coffee machine, a satellite to watch Italian football, and a pool table. What started as a place for Furfaro and his friends to watch sports and play games turned into a community hangout.
I'm a cappuccino enthusiast so that's what I chose at this neighborhood charmer. The espresso was bold yet not bitter, and I cherished the perfectly coiffed, feathery foam on top. Café Olimpico has a small food menu, namely tiramisu, biscotti, and breakfast pastries, but I limited myself to cappuccino this time; it satisfied me just fine. Note: The café is tiny and if you come at a busy time, you will likely wait — perhaps outside — but it's worth it.
cafe-olimpico-1970.myshopify.com
(438) 386-9071
419 Rue Saint-Vincent, Montreal, QC, H2Y 3A6
Dine (and shop) when brunch is calling
When I arrived at Olive e Gourmando at 11:30 a.m. on a Wednesday, there was line out the door. The restaurant opened at 9:00 a.m., so I wasn't the shrewdest patron that day. But not to worry, I put my name in with the host and headed to the restaurant's quaint boutique next door. I browsed the cookbooks and cookware, gourmet foodstuffs, and handmade pottery. There were also items for the kids, the garden, and gifts for friends and family. In just minutes, my name was called, and I was whisked into the bustling bakery-café-restaurant. The place was buzzing.
Olive e Gourmando has been serving the crowds of Old Montreal for over 25 years, and I instantly understood its allure. The bakery offers a variety of treats, including brownies, cookies, and bars (the lemon-pistachio bar was divine). For those seeking savory food, there are inventive salads, bowls, and sandwiches. My personal favorite was the salty ricotta plate featuring house-made ricotta, heirloom tomatoes, corn, garlic confit, basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan cheese, all drizzled with a garlicky lemon vinaigrette. You'll also find rice bowls, chopped salads, paninis, melts, and grilled sandwiches. The menu isn't massive, nor should it be. What's on the menu suits a variety of cravings. Don't be discouraged if there's a line outside; it moves fast, and you can hang out in the shop while you wait.
(514) 350-1083
351 Rue Saint-Paul W., Montreal QC H2Y 1A7
Visit France, if only for lunch
Modavie is a French bistro on the corner of Rue Saint-Paul, a charming, cobbled street lined with boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. The vintage restaurant has been serving French fare to visitors and locals for almost 30 years, and I was thrilled to be a part of its history.
I started lunch with the house salad, a colorful marriage of mesclun, radishes, and tomatoes in a Dijon vinaigrette. The greens were tender and flavorful, the tomatoes were juicy and sweet, and the radishes were sliced so thinly, they were wispy. I also adored the light Dijon vinaigrette. I was entirely smitten with my main course that featured mussels and Ricard pastis, a type of French anise aperitif that was infused into broth. The meaty mussels were juicy and tender, and I enjoyed the bits of sweet leeks that settled into the shells. But what made this dish unique was the pastis infused into broth. Ricard pastis added depth and complexity, and I found myself soaking up every drop with the chewy rolls served on the side (I may have dipped a few fries in as well). Speaking of the fries, they were golden and crisp on the outside and delightfully fluffy in the middle.
The Modavie menu is classically French, and the restaurant is open for brunch, lunch, and dinner. The bistro offers daily live music, which adds to the warm, immersive dining experience.
(514) 287-9582
1 Rue Saint-Paul W., Montreal, Quebec H2Y 1Y6
Enjoy cocktails in style
While meandering the streets of Old Montreal between lunch and dinner, I decided to grab a drink at The Keg Steakhouse + Bar. The main street (Rue Saint-Paul) had many bar options, but there was something about The Keg that lured me in. Perhaps it was the 200-year-old, iconic stone building that was calling my name. The lounge was dimly lit and featured a thick wooden bar, which was reminiscent of Old English architecture. The candlelit room and dark wood created a rustic yet refined atmosphere, as is typical of a steakhouse. I was thrilled with my choice.
The drink menu at The Keg was what you would expect from an upscale establishment and consisted of cocktails like whiskey sour, Negroni, espresso martini, and old fashioned. There was also an inventive list of Keg Creations, including passion fruit ranch water, gin basil lemonade, and peaches & oak consisting of J.P. Wiser's Réserve Spéciale (a Canadian whiskey created exclusively for the Quebec market), peach puree, ginger beer, and fresh mint. I kept things simple with a vodka drink, but there were plenty of other spirits to choose from, including rum, gin, tequila, whiskey, and Scotch. I enjoyed my time at The Keg so much, I went back the next day for an impromptu return visit.
thekeg.com/en/locations/old-montreal
(514) 871-9093
25, Rue Saint-Paul E., Montreal, Quebec, H2Y 1G2
Ambiance, tradition, and culinary excellence, it's time for dinner
Just down the street from the previous spots on this list lies Barroco, a stunning restaurant promising food that marries tradition and creativity, and where human warmth is as important as the fare. Barroco is housed in a charming old building, and I was so enamored with the decor, I almost forgot to peruse the menu. Stone walls, vintage lamps and chandeliers, a fireplace filled with candles, and old-timey books on wooden shelves — I was besotted. The dinner plates were mismatched, like visiting grandma at Thanksgiving when she has more guests than usual. I found the commingling of stone, leather, and wood akin to an upscale hunter's retreat.
Barroco's menu features seafood, meat, poultry, and pasta. Seafood platter, a sweet and sour dish featuring oysters, mussels in escabèche, and gravlax salmon, is one of the highlights, but bone marrow served with chimichurri, smoked eel, and country bread and creamy tagliatelle with chanterelles and sheep's milk cheese are also worth trying. I chose the BBQ grilled pork ribs with zucchini and charcutière sauce. The pork slices were caramelized around the edges and perfectly juicy in the middle, the zucchini was farm-fresh and sweet, and the brown pan sauce was rich and multi-dimensional. But what I loved most was the array of cornichons arranged over top — these tangy pickles partnered exceptionally well with the sweeter elements of the dish.
(514) 544-5800
312 Saint-Paul O., Montreal, Quebec H2Y 2A3
Sip creativity on the rocks or sans alcohol
Those who like to enjoy a cocktail before (or after) dinner should head to Bar Bisou Bisou, as it's a short, 700-meter walk from Barroco (and a 1-minute walk from Café Olimpico). Look for a tiled stairway leading to a small aperitif bar and you'll be delighted by what you find. The Mediterranean venue boasts old-fashioned stone walls and a welcoming color scheme of gray, white, and rust. Behind the bar, you'll find hospitable, knowledgeable service and a desire to please. The lengthy cocktail menu includes signature cocktails as well as low-ABV and spirit-free cocktails, so there's something for everyone.
If you're looking for an aperitif to stimulate your appetite before dining, you'll have plenty to choose from. There are cocktails with gin, vodka, cognac, whiskey, and tequila, and there is a large selection of sherry, vermouth, and other fortified wines. For those desiring a digestif to aid post-meal digestion, you find options made with sherry, rum, tequila, and Irish whiskey. I chose the hot cocoa spiked with coffee, cream, Spanish brandy, Grand Marnier, and Meletti Amaro. There's also a creative selection of non-alcoholic drinks, like the Paper Tiger with celery, wormwood, peppercorn, and sparkling water, then the Célia cocktail with honeydew melon, Granny Smith apple, and raspberry, and the Little Pea option featuring peach tea, sugar snap pea, basil, and lime.
(438) 946 9516
416 Rue Saint-Vincent, Montreal, QC, H3K 1H4
Secret door, quirky doorbell, and a speakeasy awaits
The Coldroom is a Prohibition era-inspired speakeasy and, since I adore speakeasies, a stopover was a must. Sadly, when I arrived, the bar was closed for a private party. Never one to give up, I decided to try again the next day (I had 24 hours after all).
To enter The Coldroom, one must find the doorbell. If you enjoyed Café Olimpico for coffee, you'll find that the ring isn't hard to find (it's directly across the street from the coffee shop). Once you ring, you must be patient as it takes the staff time to walk from the basement-level lounge to the street. My patience paid off. I was greeted and escorted through a small hallway and down a flight of stairs, as if I was stepping back in time and sneaking into a basement bar.
The drink list is imaginative and includes cocktails like the Smoking Gun, Kingpin, and Péché Mignon (roughly translated as guilty pleasure). I chose the Beatrix Kiddo (The Bride) which featured Patron silver, pisco, verjus (tart grape juice), celery, French pastis, soda, and bee pollen salt. The amalgamation of tart, sweet, and salty was excellent. Once drinks are finished, one must exit from a different stairway (this keeps the main door clandestine). It's a hoot; just note that you pop out on a different street from where you went in.
Rue Saint-Amable x Rue Saint-Vincent, Montreal, QC