The Saucy Flavor Boost That Makes New England's Roast Beef Sandwich A Must-Try

In an era when every region of the country claims some specialty, the New England roast beef sandwich is still delightfully local. New England, in fact, may not be local enough, as the sandwich is particularly tied to Boston, and more specifically the North Shore of Boston. It's a bit of a strange phenomenon, because there is really nothing local about the ingredients. Unlike clam chowder or the molasses-sweetened Boston baked beans, there is no geographic reason why roast beef is popular there. The secret ingredient that sets a North Shore roast beef sandwich apart from the others isn't local either: James River Barbecue Sauce.

If you've never heard of James River Barbecue Sauce, it's because it's not really a known "style" of barbecue sauce; it's a specific brand, and one that isn't sold that widely. The name comes from the James River in Virginia, which is near the Smithfield Packaged Meat Corp that makes the sauce. It started manufacturing James River Barbecue Sauce in the '50s, and the sauce made its way north to Boston. There is no clear point in time when it was first added to roast beef in New England, but as roast beef sandwich shops exploded in the '50s and '60s, it became a popular condiment. It became so tied to North Shore roast beef that the recipe was even reformulated to better pair with it.

Why James River and not any old barbecue sauce? It has to do with the way the sauce's specific flavor and texture complement the beef instead of overpowering it. It's not as heavily flavored as, say, a Kansas City-style sauce, or as thick. It's just thick enough to run down and cling to the beef all over the sandwich, giving each bite some moisture. It's also relatively mild, allowing the roast beef flavor to shine. While it does have some sweetness, it's primarily tangy — not smoky or spicy — and that tang complements the beef the same way horseradish normally might. The closest analog is actually from a more nationally famous name that does roast beef: Arby's sauce.

The typical North Shore Roast beef is ordered "three way," which means with white American cheese, James River barbecue sauce, and mayo. It's also normally served on an onion kaiser roll, although Kelly's Roast Beef, the suspected inspiration for Arby's and credited with popularizing roast beef in the area, uses a sesame bun. The one issue for people outside New England is that James River barbecue sauce isn't commonly sold nationwide and is mostly sold at local retailers like Market Basket. It isn't even available on Amazon. So if you want to try it for yourself, you may need to settle for a copycat recipe. 

Copycat James River Barbecue Sauce recipes normally use ketchup as a base, with apple cider vinegar for more tang, sugar, and Worcestershire sauce for savory notes. But you may have to wait for a trip to Boston to try the real thing.