These Old-Fashioned Sweets Definitely Deserve A Comeback, According To A Candy Expert
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Saying you feel like a kid in a candy store is never more accurate than when you're actually in a candy store. The sheer volume of choices falls somewhere between mouthwatering and overwhelming, especially when you're trying to decide between gooey caramels and Dad's Root Beer Barrels (our top choice amongst popular hard candies). So what could possibly be missing? We spoke with candy expert Beth Kimmerle, author of "Chocolate: The Sweet History" and "Candy: The Sweet History," and founder and CEO of food science and data company Attribute Analytics, who shared which old-fashioned sweets she thinks are ready for their comeback.
"If I could bring one old-timey candy flavor territory back in a bigger way, I'd vote for unique florals like rose hips, elderflower, and violet," says Kimmerle. "With its homeopathic and healing properties, floral candy once had a much more important place in the confectionery world."
If these flavors are alluring, Swedish candy — known for colorful creations in unique sweet and sour flavors that make it quite different from American candy — is the way to go. "The Swedish confectioner, Kolsvart, makes an elderflower gummy fish that is incredible," Kimmerle notes. The floral flavors Kimmerle craves are out there, as long as you know where to look. "That's what makes understanding food and flavor history so interesting to me," she explains. "Sometimes innovation isn't about inventing something entirely new. Sometimes the next great flavor has been sitting in the candy dish for 100 years."
What sets really great floral candies apart?
Floral candies are decidedly old-fashioned and can give off Grandma vibes — especially when the flavor is strong enough to smell like perfume instead of a delicate, delectable treat. "The real trick is restraint," candy expert Beth Kimmerle points out. "You want someone to think, 'What is that beautiful hint of flavor?' Not: 'Why am I eating a box of soap or a scented drawer liner?'"
If you're curious about trying a confection with a floral twist, keep an open mind and experiment with different flower flavors and candy preparations. "Violet can feel wonderfully elegant and nostalgic, yet surprisingly modern when it's paired with dark chocolate and tart fruit," Kimmerle suggests. Chocolatiers such as Richart, Compartés, Antidote, and Dallman offer artisanal floral-infused bars and bonbons.
For those craving a sweet other than chocolate, rose Turkish delight has been a classic for hundreds of years. The chewy, rosewater jelly candy is divisive but can be delicious when made with a delicate hand. Choward's Violet Mints are a legacy candy, first sold on Manhattan's streets in the 1930s, while France's Les Anis De Flavigny has been producing a variety of floral anis-based sweets since 1591. Is this confectionery genre a little old-fashioned? Maybe, but these candies can clearly stand the test of time.