Anthony Bourdain's Favorite NYC Breakfast Spot Was This Legendary Jewish Deli
Anthony Bourdain is a New York institution in his own right. Between multiple books, popular television shows, and a larger-than-life persona, his legacy remains ever-present, inspiring others to pursue their passions for food, travel, and exploration. When it came to his hometown, Bourdain was always willing to share his favorite spots to eat and drink in NYC. In the 19th episode of the first season of his show, "A Cooks Tour," he cited Upper West Side Jewish deli Barney Greengrass as serving, "the best breakfast in New York, in fact, the best breakfast in the universe."
Established in 1908, Barney Greengrass specializes in smoked fish and other foods you'd commonly find at a Jewish deli. Per Bourdain, "they don't call him the sturgeon king for nothing." He joked that the "essential ingredients for a balanced breakfast" included the New York Times, Barney Greengrass, and cigarettes. Among a variety of sought-after smoked fish dishes, Bourdain's breakfast order typically included two specific dishes for which the NYC deli was especially well known: the sturgeon platter and the Nova, eggs, and onions dish.
Pairing these with a "regular" New York coffee — which, according to him, meant with cream and sugar — his breakfast definitely highlighted the best of Barney Greengrass' offerings. He would also choose a plain toasted bagel with a "shmear" of cream cheese, noting, "there is no other bagel, by the way."
Bourdain's Barney Greengrass breakfast order
Echoing the tagline of the famed deli, Bourdain called sturgeon, "the absolute king of smoked fish," describing it as, "flaky but firm with a delicate, almost buttery flavor." Of the Nova, eggs, and onions dish, Bourdain mentioned that its name, "implies the best smoked salmon." He enthusiastically continued, "scramble that with caramelized onions and farm fresh eggs and you end up with a smoky, greasy pile of good stuff." In Bourdain's opinion, he called properly caramelized onions, "the secret to a lot of really good Jewish cuisine."
After such a filling and fulfilling breakfast, Bourdain wasn't quite done yet. His next order was a pound of chopped liver to take home which he called, "a Greengrass specialty I can't live without." Describing it as, "fluffy, ethereal, absolutely the best," it's easy to see why the popular deli food is not only a frequent order, but also a rich Hanukkah appetizer steeped in tradition.
If you want to follow in Bourdain's footsteps, prepare for a big breakfast that's best when shared with friends and note that the deli does not typically take credit cards. For those not local to NYC, it's also good to know that Barney Greengrass ships its smoked fish and other deli fare nationwide. Come with an open mind and a hungry stomach, leave satisfied and full of smoked fish.