This Fancy-Sounding Diner Sandwich Is A Pittsburgh Staple

Picture this: A single piece of perfectly toasted bread covered in slices of house-roasted turkey breast. Two slices of crispy, fried bacon cover the turkey and then the whole thing is slathered in a rich, creamy cheddar cheese sauce. A dash of paprika and Parmesan on top has been crisped and browned under the broiler. It's served open-faced, and it's so decadent you need to eat it with a knife and fork. It comes to you with the distinguished name of Turkey Devonshire and it's a Pittsburgh staple that was almost unheard of outside of the city, but now it's enjoying a renaissance.

The Turkey Devonshire sounds a bit like the famous Louisville Hot Brown sandwich. The two are both open-faced turkey sandwiches with bacon and cheese. The traditional Hot Brown recipe requires pecorino cheese, though modern recipes often swap in Parmesan and add a touch of nutmeg. The Turkey Devonshire omits the cheese variations and nutmeg, and its sauce is made with stock. Slight differences, but significant enough.

Restaurateur Frank Blandi introduced the Turkey Devonshire in 1934. Food historians note that this was several years after the Hot Brown's debut. They have found no evidence that Blandi had ever visited Louisville or heard of the sandwich, though it's possible. For the most part, it seems to be a unique Pittsburgh tradition. Roasted turkey was an indulgence, so this sandwich felt decadent, and Blandi named it Devonshire for that reason. Devonshire was a street nearby full of high-class houses and that was the vibe Blandi wanted.

The thing that makes the Turkey Devonshire special is also part of what made it fall out of favor. Roast turkey breast is not something many of us have on hand all the time. Even restaurants don't roast turkeys regularly, but modern restaurants do have deli-style turkey. The problem is that's a very different ingredient. If you cut corners on the turkey and use a premade cheese sauce, you end up with a dish that is less interesting, less flavorful, and lacking texture. The evolution of sandwich ingredients was not kind to the Turkey Devonshire.

The dish is making a slow comeback in some restaurants that take the time to house-roast turkey and make their own sauce. Places like Union Grill and Mohan's serve mostly traditional versions. That said, the internet features many recipes, including ones that are meant to be duplicates of Frank Blandi's original.

Some versions of the Turkey Devonshire include tomato. This is not a traditional addition, but many agree that the tomato's acidity and sweetness cut through the richness of the turkey and cheese sauce, bringing the sandwich to life. Others have adjusted the recipe with different cheeses and spicy ingredients to give it heat. Like any good sandwich, it's open to interpretation and the desires of the maker. If you have an interest in classic American sandwiches, your best bet for finding an authentic Turkey Devonshire is making your own and seeing what you think.