How To Buy The Perfect Pepperoni For Your Pizza

While a margherita pizza (linked to Italian royalty) is an undeniable Old World classic, and the Hawaiian pizza (whose history leads back to Canada) is wonderful too, when you have to choose just one accoutrement for your slice, pepperoni is the clear best topping. However, pepperoni is not a one-size-fits-all ingredient, and choosing the right variety for your pie can present you with a host of unexpected questions. That's why Tasting Table reached out to pizza consultant Noel Brohner, founder of Slow Rise Pizza Co., for some pepperoni pointers.

Straight out of the gate, Brohner acknowledges how contentious this ingredient can be, stating, "Tempers tend to flare when discussing such topics as pepperoni preferences." And as much as we might like to believe that our tastes are purely our own, Brohner is quick to point out that we may owe more than we like to admit to our upbringing. "Most people enjoy what they grew up eating, whether they know it or not," he says. But awareness is the first step to change. If you are ready to expand the scope of your pepperoni exploration and leave your childhood tastes behind, Brohner suggests that some of the most important factors to look at in a potential pepperoni partner are fat content, fermented flavor, and unnecessary fillers.

What to consider when picking a pepperoni

As with any sausage, the ratio of fat to meat in your pepperoni is important. Noel Brohner suggests that a higher fat content is preferable, as the fat will more readily melt out and ensure a rich pepperoni flavor across the pie.

The age of the sausage is another top factor. Brohner says, "The best pepperoni has depth and tang — not just salt and spice." Given that pizza is the only time that many folks eat pepperoni, we might not think much about the fact that it is a cured sausage. But there's no reason that pepperoni needs to be one-note — good pepperoni can have just as much character as other types of cured meat.

Like any good preserved meat, the pepperoni you pick to top your pie also shouldn't rely on a bunch of unnecessary filler ingredients. "Avoid versions with lots of soy or texturized protein," says Brohner, "it muddies the taste and texture." So, be sure to take a good look at the label before tossing a pepperoni in your basket. Brands that use filler proteins are likely to be cheaper, but they don't stand up next to the real thing.

The final major point for picking the perfect pepperoni is thickness. But this has as much to do with how you make your pizza as it does your personal preference. "One size or thickness does not fit all occasions." Brohner said, "For instance, some of the thinner versions are perfect for a quick hot bake but dry out or burn if the bake is too long." It's up to you whether you buy pre-sliced pepperoni or a whole sausage to slice up at home yourself, in which case you can more easily experiment with thickness.

Expert pepperoni choices

There are clearly a lot of factors to consider when picking the ideal pepperoni to adorn your pie — maybe too many. When things get overwhelming, it's great to be able to turn to an expert for a straightforward answer, and Noel Brohner did not hesitate with his top pick: Ezzo Cup & Char, an American sausage manufacturer that was founded over 100 years ago by Italian immigrants. "The two options I return to again and again are the Suprema for its excellent charring and the Gia Antonia for its cupping capabilities, color and flavor," says Brohner. He also likes to put both varieties on the same pizza to really cover all his bases. Some pepperoni just curl better than others, and who can deny the savor of those meaty little grease cups?

If you are on the adventurous side, Brohner also suggests looking beyond just pepperoni. "Italian style soppressata or spicy soppressata have been gaining in popularity for years, especially in Italian pizzerias trying to serve and/or elevate the American palate," he tells us. For cured meats outside the norm, consider Smoking Goose Charcuterie in Indianapolis, Indiana. While they don't offer an American-style pepperoni, the salame piccante is similar, and other exciting alternatives include Rust Belt Saucisson, a cold-smoked pork sausage flavored with garlic, lemon peel, and nutmeg. Brohner also puts in a good word for artisan cured meats company Zoey's Meats.

In the end, the style or brand of pepperoni or salami you choose to accent your homemade pizza, like most things in the kitchen, is really just a matter of preference. Or, as Brohner puts it, "As for what's best, that's all about personal taste."

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