Travel

So You Think You Can Gdańsk

A Baltic town best explored on an empty stomach
Photo: Sheela Prakash
Gdansk Poland

Sheela Prakash spent a few days in the Baltic town of Gda?sk, a city best explored with an empty stomach and good walking shoes. She runs us through the best spots to take in Gothic charm; chow down on rich, hearty food; and walk the quaint ins and outs.

As a master's student at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in northern Italy, I am lucky enough to not only eat my way through Italy, but also to bite into other parts of Europe on the study trips (or "stages," as we UNISG students call them) that are required as part of our coursework. A few months ago, I traveled to Gda?sk with a few classmates to dive into its food history, landscape and culture. What I found was a city that was not only breathtaking but delicious.

THE SCENE
If you've had the chance to visit other parts of Poland and think you have a pretty good grasp on the country, you're wrong. Gda?sk is unlike any other part of the country, with a charm all its own. Located in the north of the country, along the Baltic Sea, it was here in 1939 that the first shots of World World II were fired. The war left the city in complete ruins. It took years to rebuild the historic old city.

Today, Gda?sk continues to be the most important port in Poland and is a thriving destination for tourism. Together with neighboring resort towns Sopot and Gdynia, the area is known as the Polish Riviera. Old Town Gda?sk is a mess of winding cobblestoned streets and stunning facades located around the main square, D?ugi Targ ("the Long Market"). Tuck into these little streets to admire the unique mix of Dutch Renaissance and Gothic styles before meandering along the boardwalk on the Mot?awa River, which runs along the old town.

MORNING FUEL
Get your day started at Gda?sk's Market Hall (Plac Dominika?ski). Open every morning (except Sunday) at 9 a.m., the historic market built on the site of a Dominican monastery is notable for its wrought-iron, 19th-century railway station architecture. Head downstairs, pass the tacky clothing vendors, and you'll be rewarded with stall after stall of Polish treats: Traditional baked goods like p?czki (doughnuts typically filled with fruit jam or sweet cheese) and salty snacks like kabanosy (thin, dry-smoked sausage) and oscypek (smoked and salted sheep's-milk cheese). Just outside Market Hall is the produce market, where local fruits and vegetables are sold on the cheap.

GET A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW
St. Mary's Church, or in Polish, Bazylika Mariacka, is the largest brick church in the world. Construction began in 1379 and was completed in 1502. For five zloty (about $1.50), you can climb the 405 steep steps to the top of the church's tower. The view of the city is breathtaking.

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LUNCH BELL
Step back in time at Bar Mleczny Turystyczny, a traditional milk bar. Milk bars originated as government-funded cafeterias, common during Communist-era Poland to provide simple, filling food, much of it based on milk products, for poor workers. Today, they are back in vogue, and you can find at least one milk bar in every major Polish city. Traditional items, such as breaded pork cutlets, cucumber salad and pierogi, are served in generous portions, and lunch won't set you back more than 15 zloty ($5).

MEANDER FOR AMBER
Ulica Mariacka is easily the most charming street in all of Old Town Gda?sk, with its cobblestoned pavement and beautiful terraced townhouses. Gda?sk is known for amber gemstone production, which is sourced from the nearby Baltic Sea, and this street, which is known for the small amber jewelry shops and workshops that line the way, is the best and most reliable place to shop.

SPOT A CASTLE
Medieval Malbork Castle is a short ride from the city. The well-preserved Germanic brick fortress, built by Teutonic Knights, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the largest castle in the world.

DINNER REMIX
Get a taste of new Polish cuisine at Metamorfoza, the restaurant that's putting Gda?sk on the culinary map with high-end, creative cuisine that embraces seasonality along with Polish heritage in a gourmet way. Owner Justyna Zdunek is passionate about sourcing the best ingredients she can find from local producers she knows and trusts. There's a seven-course tasting menu (200 zloty, or $65) and an à la carte option. The menu highlights the best flavors of the region with dishes like wild boar ham with black currant jam and parsley. Beet cooler soup with raw rhubarb is a fresh take on the classic cold borscht found all over Poland.

DRINK AND BE MERRY
You can't talk about Poland without talking about beer. Try a few light, dark and wheat beers at Brovarnia, the beer hall located in the swanky Hotel Gda?sk that's considered one of the best microbreweries in the country.

AND SO TO BED
Occupying a set of antique homes, the 26-room Holland House Residence is smack-dab in the center of Old Town. Hanza Hotel on the river has killer harborside views.

HOW TO GET AROUND
Old Town Gda?sk is traffic restricted, so your best way to get around is by foot. G?ówny station is the main train station for the city and is the easiest way to leave the city.

WHEN TO GO
Summer is by far the best time of year to travel to Gda?sk, though late spring and early fall are also sunny and mild. Winters tend to be cold, cloudy and damp. Because the city is located right along the Baltic Sea, rain showers can occur anytime of the year.

This article originally appeared on Fathom.

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