One could easily spend morning, noon and night at Logan Square’s Reno, a new all-day restaurant from the owners of Telegraph, Webster’s Wine Bar and Bluebird.
In the morning there are bagels, boiled then baked in the wood-burning oven left by the space’s former inhabitant (a Neapolitan-style pizza joint).
A countertop display holds snickerdoodle muffins, quiche and carrot-currant-pineapple buns, too, but these dense, chewy bagels--the city’s newest in eons--merit a try. Top sesame-seed or olive-herb bagels with artichoke cream cheese, house-made strawberry jam ($4.25), or a fried egg and cheddar ($4.50).
Come by in the afternoon for sandwiches built on pastry chef Katie Wyer’s bread, including a roasted turkey and tomato jam combo on slices of whole-grain ($7.50), and seedy buns filled with chicken thighs, pickles and honey ($7.50).
At night, the wood-burning oven is given over to pizzas; the red sauce on the margherita-like pizza ($9) fell short on flavor, but the pull and chew in the crust was spot-on. We’ll be returning for the Hog, topped with pork-belly carnitas, salsa verde and cotija ($14), and pairing it with a plate of roasted cauliflower ($5), a dill-flecked dish we’ve been craving since we first tried it.
One last perk: Every bottle on Reno’s concise list is also available for retail sale.
Reno, 2607 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-697-4234 or renochicago.com
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