The TT 46

Jessica Koslow

Sqirl, Los Angeles, CA
Photo: Jaime Beechum

Why she killed it in 2015: At the forefront of the all-day breakfast movement is Koslow's Sqirl, in L.A.'s Silver Lake neighborhood, which has become known for its people-watching; worth-the-wait sorrel pesto rice bowls topped with hot sauce and a poached egg; and exceptional, creative jams and preserves in flavors like Moro blood orange marmalade and Blenheim apricot. Look out for Koslow's takeaway spot, Sqirl Away (yeah, we love the name, too), in the New Year.

How would you describe your food? "Clean and vibrant market-driven food cooked with a deft hand."

What's your signature dish? "If we took our sorrel dish off the menu, people would riot. It's Koda Farms' heirloom brown rice with house-preserved lemon, French feta, our lacto-fermented hot sauce and a poached egg. Breakfast of champions . . . to some."

Go to hangover food? "Boat noodles from Sapp Coffee Shop. One hundred times out of 100."

What's the most underrated ingredient, and how do you use it? "I love French sorrel, and I use it in dressing and sauces all over the place. What I'm into right now, however, is all of my dill stems. We use so much dill on the line. We dehydrate the stems that we don't use and turn them into powder, which we mix into labne that goes on top of our chickpea socca pancakes. We also use it in our dill-pickle popcorn. Needless to say, we have fun with the stems."

Cake or pie? "π π π π."

Find Sqirl on DINE.

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