Bistro La Promenade | New York City, NY

Rustic? Who needs rustic?

In a city spackled with distressed wood, Edison bulbs and stuffed deer heads, Alain Allegretti's new Bistro La Promenade is a welcome infusion of glamour.

Pass below the lighted canopy awning and take a seat at one of the plush melon-and-lemon-colored bar stools. Across the dining room, standing brass lamps spread out over dark wooden tables.

To begin, roasted-then-fried earthy baby artichokes ($12) and zucchini-flower beignets ($10) both do a fine job cutting through a Kir Royale ($14).

Then slide into a velvet-lined cerulean booth for tripe and potatoes ($11), slick with chicken stock, veal jus and tomato and piled onto charred bread. Allegretti's famous fish soup ($14) is a must-order: Its cooking is a multiday affair that involves a bone-rich stock, carrots, fennel, onion, basil and Pastis.

Prices are fair, and no main course is more than $30. In addition, the service is delicate, and a café au lait ($4) to finish is superlative.

A meal at La Promenade feels like a blissful Provencal vacation.

Bistro La Promenade, 461 W. 23rd St. (at 10th Ave.); 212-255-7400 or lapromenadenyc.com