Why Your Plant Milk-Based Pudding Mix Isn't Setting (And How To Fix It)

From the base for classic watergate salad to the shortcut for easy Bavarian cream in any custard-based dessert, pudding mix can serve many purposes. But while it may not always look or taste the same, there's one thing that pudding always is, and that's spoonable. While homemade pudding utilizes egg proteins and fats from cream and milk to thicken, plant-based pudding mix doesn't always set correctly. But there are two potential fixes. While attending the New York City Wine & Food Fest at the Seaport, Tasting Table asked vegan chef, Shenarri Freeman, about tricks to keep plant-based puddings from failing to set.

Freeman mentioned two alternative thickening agents: "You can also use a little bit of cornstarch — make a cornstarch slurry — or use a little bit of guar gum [which] comes in powder form." Interestingly, many homemade pudding recipes call for the use of cornstarch in accordance with eggs. However, to use cornstarch as a fix for your plant milk-based pudding mix, you'll want to create a slurry of 1 tablespoon of cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons of water, whisked until smooth. This mixture will work to bind and thicken your pudding, similar to how eggs would in a homemade recipe.

While guar gum isn't a common ingredient in pudding recipes, it's used a lot in vegan and plant-based cooking. You don't need much in your mix — just a ¼ teaspoon for every cup of non-dairy milk the box calls for, whisked directly into the other ingredients.

There are many plant-based egg replacements and binding agents out there in addition to the two Shenarri Freeman suggested. For pudding, both guar gum and cornstarch work as sufficient thickeners with the additional advantage of being flavorless. However, there are a few caveats to consider, such as the fact that neither provides the proteins or fats that eggs would.

Knowing this, you'll want to pair either the cornstarch or the guar gum with a milk alternative that's creamy and rich but also neutral in flavor — such as a barista or full-fat variety of plain oat milk. You could also opt for full-fat canned coconut milk, bearing in mind it will likely have a strong coconut flavor that impacts the taste of your pudding. Some pudding mixes even explicitly mention that the dessert won't set if you use soy milk. 

Whatever milk or thickening agent you choose, Freeman has one more tip to follow. She explains that your refrigerator will be your best friend when it comes to getting anything plant-based to set. "I'd definitely put it in the fridge, maybe the freezer," advised the chef. Leave the pudding there for a few hours — or less if in the freezer — to ensure you achieve that velvety and spoonable consistency.