This Is The Must-Have Flour For Perfectly Soft, Buttery Biscuits
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Nothing beats a soft, warm, buttery biscuit to go along with your breakfast (or dinner). But what's the secret to making your homemade biscuits taste like they came straight from a restaurant? The flour you select can be a big factor. And our recommendation comes straight from the biscuit king himself: Melvin Boots Johnson, chef and owner of Harlem Biscuit Company and Boots & Bones Steakhouse.
We recently sat down with Johnson at the 2025 New York City Wine & Food Festival to discuss how he gets soft, flaky biscuits every time. He shared that White Lilly Enriched Self-Rising Flour is his flour of choice. Unlike all-purpose flour brands, White Lily uses soft red winter wheat to make each bag, giving it a lower protein and gluten content that gives your biscuits that melt-in-your-mouth quality. Johnson explained that the self-rising version is generally a great pick "because you don't have to measure the baking powder or salt and [add] stuff to it" since it already contains both leavening and salt. If you opt for self-rising flour, you'll really only need just three ingredients to make light and fluffy biscuits: butter, buttermilk, and, of course, the flour itself.
Make biscuits by using your hands to mix the dough
Making perfectly soft biscuits is about more than what you put in your bowl. It's also about how you work with the ingredients in it, raising a crucial question: stand mixing or hand mixing? For Johnson, it's hand mixing all the way.
The reasons are both practical and sentimental. On the practical side, a stand mixer has the potential to ruin your biscuit dough. Making biscuits is a delicate art, and introducing a stand mixer makes it more than likely that you'll over-mix your dough, leaving a gummy or chewy biscuit in its wake. Luckily, Johnson presents an alternative: using your hands.
"We do everything by hand," he shares. But for Johnson, hand mixing isn't just a technique but a tradition. "I cook like a 70-year-old Black woman. You know, we didn't have a whole lot of stand mixers and stuff back then. Grandmothers, they did everything by hand."
The result? Not only a biscuit dough that isn't overworked, but one that contains another special ingredient: love. Johnson explains that "doing it by hand" allows you to really "feel the love in your food." So once you add a scoop of White Lily Self-Rising Enriched Flour into your bowl, throw some love in there too, and mix your dough by hand. It just might be the other ingredient your biscuits have been missing.