Ohio's Serbian-Style Fried Chicken Is A True Hidden Gem
Who knew that a renowned and wildly loved plate of crispy fried chicken comes not from America's Deep South, but from a small town in Ohio? Or even more specifically, its birth story originates in the European country of Serbia. After emerging in Barberton, Ohio, via Serbian immigrants, the unique fried-chicken phenomenon eventually took the name of Barberton fried chicken. But make no mistake, this regional specialty is true Serbian-style, as interpreted by an enterprising couple, and now, their descendants.
After growing up together as children in Ohio, Serbian immigrants Mike Monojola and Smilks Topalsky married, then launched a fried-chicken enterprise in their humble farmhouse, introducing in 1933 a one-plate meal with a fated future. That dish became their solo entree for 33 years, comprised of the as-yet unknown Serbian-style fried chicken, plus vinegar coleslaw, fries, and a fiery "hot rice" hot sauce. The eatery that launched decades ago was, and still is, called Belgrade Gardens. It has remained in the same family hands, in the same farmhouse location, with a much-expanded seating capacity for 270 diners.
The Belgrade Gardens family now dishes out its renowned Barberton chicken from a second location as well, Belgrade Gardens South, situated between the Ohio cities of Akron and Canton. When dining at a Belgrade table, you're breaking bread (or chicken) with a revolving door of devotees, which have ranged over the years from film, television, and football stars to high-level Ohio politicians. Other restaurants prepare the dish now, but they're still primarily in the Buckeye State.
About Barberton chicken and where to find it
A major distinguishing component of Serbian-style Barberton fried chicken is the so-called hot sauce. By American standards, it's actually not a hot sauce at all, rather a mixture of rice, tomatoes, and hot Hungarian peppers, known in Serbia as djuvece. It's routinely served alongside the fried chicken, bringing a tangy‑spicy punch to the party, with diners often dipping fries into the "sauce."
The chicken itself is quite simple and fried directly into a pan of lard. Its other popular side dish, the vinegary, finely-shredded coleslaw, is almost always present, known in the home country as kupus salata. The chicken itself is a straightforward affair, billed as "fresh, local, and never frozen." It's seasoned only with salt; lightly breaded with flour, an egg wash, and fine breadcrumbs; chilled overnight; and slowly fried in lard for a deeply golden crust.
Apart from the still-thriving Belgrade Gardens, a handful of other restaurants in town serve Barberton fried chicken, most dating back to the 1940s and '50s. White House Chicken, with locations in Barberton, Green, and Wadsworth, Ohio, serves it with the traditional side dishes and "hot sauce." The same mostly goes for two more venues, Hopocan Gardens and Village Inn. As legend goes, these Serbian chicken eateries collectively dished out as many as 30,000 chicken dinners weekly during the 1970s, even shipping to hometown soldiers stationed in Vietnam during wartime. For more interesting insights into Serbian food, check out our guide to 15 Serbian dishes you need to try at least once.