The Anthony Bourdain-Approved Cheese You Should Be Stocking Up On
Anthony Bourdain was quite honest about his lack of a sweet tooth. So much so that he famously skipped over the dessert section of his 2016 cookbook "Appetites," revealing that it was the one meal course he could've lived without. Instead of something sweet for dessert, he preferred cheese. More specifically, Stilton cheese, but he was also known to be a fan of Stilton's lesser-known cousin: Stichelton.
Often referred to as the raw-milk version of Stilton, Stichelton is an unpasteurized, blue cheese from England. It has a more complex, nutty flavor and a creamier texture compared to Stilton, as well as a meaty finish. It can be difficult to find because it's made by just one dairy in Nottinghamshire. Bourdain considered himself lucky to find it at Di Bruno Bros in Philadelphia, calling it a "major score" in a 2012 tweet. He described the cheese as "perfectly ripe and ready", and like his beloved Stilton, it also goes great with a glass of port.
How is Stichelton different from Stilton?
Stichelton is produced by Joe Schneider, an American cheesemaker, and Randolph Hodgson, who founded the esteemed London cheese store Neal's Yard Dairy. Hodgson originally sold raw milk Stilton in his store, but there was only one producer left making it after World War II. In the early '90s, the producer began to pasteurize their milk, which changed the taste.Hodgson begged them to go back to the raw version to no avail.
He eventually met Schneider, and the pair decided to make their own version. However, by that time in 2006, the Stilton name was protected and under European law so it could no longer be made with raw milk. A regular Neal's Yard customer suggested Stichelton, an earlier name of Stilton village, for which the cheese is named — and it stuck.
Each wheel of Stichelton is still made by Schneider and his small team on the farm where the dairy is located. Around 40 wheels are produced per day, and each is aged on site for four to six months. The process creates a unique flavor that has notes of apple, beef, and caramel that goes great with everything from burgers to pasta. Its creamy texture also makes it perfect for crackers. If you can get your hands on it, it will make the ultimate cheese board addition. Or you can take some inspiration from Bourdain and enjoy it with a simple port. Here's our port bottle guide if you need some direction.