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The Whole Hog

Watch Angie Mar from The Beatrice Inn roast a pig on a beach
The Whole Hog
Video & photo: Dave Katz/Tasting Table 

The ocean air whirs and whistles, slipping around slender cattails as they sway. Firewood dances and crackles beneath an animal, which was born, lived and then slaughtered fewer than five miles from here. We're at Rancho Santana, a luxury resort near Rivas, Nicaragua, and everything is moving slowly: the people, the tide, the food.

Far away from The Beatrice Inn, her meat-centric restaurant in NYC's West Village, Angie Mar is on the beach, preparing a whole pig, roasting it torture-rack style for 80 hungry guests. "There's a beautiful theatricality to it," she says. Much like her restaurant, which serves butcher blocks with massive portions of steak and seafood, tonight's dinner is indeed absolutely theatrical.

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"I love to elicit shock and awe with my food," she says, grinning. Angie tends to the fire with an expert's touch, keeping the temperature low and consistent for the duration of the six-hour roast. People gather as the smell of pork fills the air, taking photos as it cooks.

Everything being served comes from Rancho Santana, a 2,700-acre, self-sustaining ecosystem of organic gardens, wood- and metalworking shops, and, of course, farms. With a variety of indigenous breeds already thriving, its animals are happy and healthy, and you can taste the difference.

Watch the video to see how it all goes down.

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