Dining

Standard Deviation

Dine under the High Line

Despite The Standard Grill's name, the new restaurant at The Standard Hotel isn't a grill in the usual sense of the term. Then again, hotelier André Balazs's idea of what's "standard" tends to be anything but.

By avoiding the outsize concepts found at neighboring restaurants, The Standard Grill successfully adds a much-needed dose of understated coolness to the Meatpacking District.

Chef Dan Silverman (formerly of Lever House) abandons the woefully habitual burgers and fries, instead turning a bounty of farm-stand ingredients into comforting seasonal plates. Snack on gratis French Breakfast radishes before savoring a cool haricots verts salad dressed with yogurt, cinnamon and crispy shallots ($9).

Sweet pea ravioli with pistachios and mint ($15) is a light and buttery main dish, though those with heartier appetites should try grill-marked standouts like Sunburst trout with currant-pine-nut relish ($16) and the Berkshire pork chop coated in a spiced-salt crust ($18).

Added value comes in the form of a complimentary side dish; ours have included patatas bravas with smoked-paprika aioli on one visit, baby carrots with tarragon on another.

And take advantage of the restaurant's expansive sidewalk and patio areas: Located under the newly opened High Line, they offer the summer's best seats in town.

The Standard Grill, 848 Washington St. (at W. 13th St.); 212-645-4100 or thestandardgrill.com

The Standard Grill 846 Washington St. New York NY 10014 212-645-4100

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