Dining

Now Open: In Situ, Zadie's Oyster Room and More

15 new places to add to your must-try list
Carrot, sour curd, pickled pine at In Situ | Photo: Eric Wolfinger
Restaurant Roundup

New York City
Zadie’s Oyster Room: Raw, steamed, fried, pickled and poached—clearly chef Marco Canora loves him some briny bivalves. Inspired by 19th-century oyster houses, he’s turned his former East Village wine bar, 50 Paces, into an airy seafood spot, complete with classics like shrimp cocktail and Caesar salad.

1633: Who doesn’t want to feast on moussaka and gyro pizza surrounded by stone cherubs and seated under crystal chandeliers? This cheeky Upper East Side Greek oasis is larger than life, poking fun at itself with decorative opulence, but the mezepoli-style food from Dionisis Liakopoulos is legit.

Los Angeles
85 Degrees C:
The (will)power is in your hands at the Downtown location of this cult-fave Taiwanese bakery. You will likely crumble once armed with tongs and a choice between more than 60 different sweet and savory—and reasonably priced—pastries. Start with a round of spicy green onion chicken, then opt for a signature egg tart for dessert.

Yamashiro: After closing for only a week, the second coming of this 100-year-old Hollywood restaurant is here. The previous owners had been at the helm for 50 years, but now there’s a new reign. There’ll be still be plenty of excellent sushi, proving that change doesn’t have to be bad.

San Francisco
In Situ: Corey Lee’s latest project, nestled in the newly redesigned SFMOMA, reads like the answer to the age-old question, “If you could have dinner with any chef, who would it be?” The Benu and Monsieur Benjamin chef has turned the restaurant’s menu into a greatest hits montage, with dishes from revered chefs like Alice Waters, Massimo Bottura and Roy Choi, whose coveted ketchup fried rice is currently featured.

Tawla: This Mission District restaurant blends California sensibility and seasonality with Eastern Mediterranean food. In the hands of Delfina alum Joseph Magidow, that looks like fried chicken livers tossed with sumac and braised rabbit with spring peas.

Louie’s Gen-Gen Room: You officially have another reason to swing by Lower Nob Hill’s Hawaiian hit, Liholiho Yacht Club. Downstairs, chef Ravi Kapur just opened this reservations-only bar, where Kapur makes playful snacks, like furikake waffles, and bartender Yanni Kehagiaras shakes up tropical cocktails.

El Buen Comer: Mexico City native Isabel Caudillo has turned her beloved 15-year-old supper club into a Bernal Heights haven for home cooking. The menu revolves around guisados, satisfying stews that range from pork with mole to tripe with potatoes and tomatoes.

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Chicago
The Dearborn: This new upscale American tavern in Block 37 is a true sister act; it’s owned by Clodagh and Amy Lawless, who come from a family of Chicago restaurateurs. The double-decker burger and crispy fries are matched to perfection, and the uber-comfortable bar chairs are exactly where you’ll want to be drinking an old-fashioned after work.

Washington, D.C.
Bantam King: While ramen is king at Daikaya, this new Chinatown sister spot is all about chicken. That means paitan, creamy chicken ramen topped with even more roast chicken shreds; fried chicken à la KFC (a cult favorite in Japan); and chicken-stuffed dumplings.

Beefsteak Tenleytown: José Andrés is at it again. His fourth location of the fast-casual, veg-focused counter heads to Tenleytown and with it, grain bowls aplenty, like corn nut-topped Frida Kale, and salads, like the seaweed-scattered When in Romaine. Next stop for Beefsteak: the Montgomery Mall.

Austin
L’oca D’Oro: Italian for “golden goose,” Mueller’s newest modern Italian restaurant prides itself on sourcing and stretching pristine ingredients. Chef Fiore Tedesco, who worked at Franklin Barbecue and Roberta’s, freshly mills grain for breads and pasta, and turns produce into vinegars and liqueurs. Everything comes family style, like eggplant Parm and grilled grouper with fennel and loquat.

Houston
Steak 48: There are no old-school checkered tablecloths in sight at River Oaks’ new luxury steakhouse. The only thing that’ll snap you out of staring at the glittery ceiling fixtures will be the wafting scent of a massive tomahawk rib eye placed in front of you by an attentive waiter. The king crab is just as wonderfully imposing; just make sure to save room for the seafood tower and sides like Hasselback potatoes.

Detroit
Chapman House: Years-long renovations to the century-old Rochester home are finally complete, meaning Christopher Cason is ready to give the people French-tuned Michigan food. Inside the grand, perfectly manicured space, he’s finessing Columbia River sturgeon over tomato crudo and haricots verts with brown butter and verjus.

Hamptons
The Golden Pear: As soon as you finish brunch, it will be time to turn around and head back to the Southampton outpost of this summertime staple. Dinner is now served (and heading to the Bridgehampton location any minute), which includes grilled chicken quesadillas, lobster bisque and craft and local wines.

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