Dining

Let Them Eat Frog's Legs

Dominique Crenn opens her modern brasserie, Antoinette, tonight in Berkeley
Photo: Tasting Table
Dominique Crenn

Dominique Crenn, the first woman to hold two Michelin stars in the U.S., has had an exceptionally busy few months. In August, she opened Petit Crenn, an homage to her Brittany roots, in San Francisco's Hayes Valley, and in November, she released Atelier Crenn: Metamorphosis of Taste, a cross between poetic art book and intense restaurant-driven cookbook.

And tonight, she will add a third restaurant to her mini empire, a French hotel brasserie in Berkley named Antoinette for all the strong women of France and, yes, one in particular. "I want to bring the beauty and elegance of a brasserie back to what it should be. . . . A true brasserie is all about hospitality," she told Eater in December.

Fittingly, her menu includes brasserie staples like escargot in the style of Georges Perrier, frog legs in brown butter and sweetbreads with savoy cabbage but with modern touches. The sweetbreads come with broccoli fondant and flowering shiso, and there's sea urchin with coffee roasted sunchokes and gooseberries. Justin Mauz, who most recently worked at Joël Robuchon at the Mansion in Las Vegas and previously for Perrier, will be executing these dishes day to day along with Alinea and Meadowood vet Travis Hunter.

Crenn is the latest in a string of acclaimed chefs and restaurateurs trying to improve the historically subpar American hotel restaurant including Mario Batali in New York City, who will open his coastal Italian restaurant, La Sirena, in the Maritime Hotel later this week.

Find Petit Crenn here, or in our DINE app.

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