Dining

How Now Brown Butter

Why the decadent sauce is one chef's dirty little secret
Photo: Tasting Table
Brown Butter

Everyone knows that chefs cook with a lot of butter—but that doesn't mean they don't feel a tiny bit guilty about it.

Case in point: We asked Shaun Hergatt, executive chef and partner at Juni in New York City, which ingredient is his "dirty little secret," and here's what he said:

"Brown butter is my thing. It's the cause of so much taste and deliciousness yet is just so bad for you. I'm addicted to the flavor—it's my steady girlfriend who I know is not good for me or anyone else."

We're in a tumultuous relationship with the rich sauce, too: Check out our recipes for brown butter and pecan ice cream, and brown butter and lemon popcorn.

More chefs answer:
• Why Ramps Are Over
• What a Drunk Chef Eats
• Broccoli: Banned

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