Eat This Now: Steak

Chefs are reacquainting us with rib eyes and porterhouses
Steak frites and the dining room at Bavette's (Photo: Kari Skaflen)

High-rolling fuss has gone out of fashion in many restaurant circles, with one exception: the steakhouse. But now even that paradigm of excess is under attack. Chefs around the country are taking the model and revamping it with contemporary, approachable aplomb. Pass the creamed spinach.

Tasty 'N Alder, Portland, Oregon: Chef John Gorham grew up celebrating special occasions at a steakhouse with his grandfather. His new concept aims to channel that experience in a more casual, accessible atmosphere. By offering full and half portions, he's able to offer wagyu rib eye at an entry point of under $15.

St. Anselm, Brooklyn: This snug restaurant has slowly built a reputation for being the steak lover's anti-steakhouse. The butcher's cut, at $15, is a flavor-packed steal, and the skillet-cooked mashed potatoes are the only dish in town to which we give a hall pass on truffle oil.

PB Steak, Miami: The new jewel of South Beach is this meaty spot from the Pubbelly team. The ambience is casual, but those seeking a luxe steakhouse experience can order from the "Pimp It Up" section of the menu, which includes add-ons like foie gras mousse and roasted bone marrow.

Bavette's Bar & Boeuf, Chicago: For a touch of the old school, head to Bavette's, where the city's hottest restaurateurs (Au Cheval, Maude's Liquor Bar) have given the classic steakhouse vibe a face-lift to fit modern times. Dishes, though, are tried and true: Order the steak frites.

Béarnaise, Washington, D.C.: Cheftestant Spike Mendelsohn will be opening a classic steak frites joint this spring, his first move away from fast-casual concepts.

Tasty 'N Alder 580 SW 12th Ave. Portland OR 97205 503-621-1400 St. Anselm 355 Metropolitan Ave. Brooklyn NY 11211 718-384-5054 PB Steak 1787 Purdy Ave. Miami FL 33139 305-695-9550 Bavette's Bar & Boeuf 218 W. Kinzie St. Chicago IL 60654 312-624-8154 BĂ©arnaise 315 Pennsylvania Washington DC 20003 202-450-4800

Around the Web

Get the Tasting Table newsletter for adventurous eaters everywhere