Dining

Umami Monkey

A sneakily savory new dessert
Cheddar-apple pie

To name your restaurant after a given taste is to stake a serious claim.

At his ever-growing Umami Burger empire, Adam Fleischman has stayed true to his signature flavor--from the eponymous burger to Umami's other meat-and-bun creations.

But where does umami, defined by its singular savoriness, fit into a dessert menu?

Local baking outfit Cake Monkey has the answer. Since the beginning of the month, all Umami locations have been serving the bakery's take on the ideal follow-up to the all-American burger: apple pie (pictured; $6).

Known for its playful takes on Pop Tarts, Sno Balls and other such confections, Cake Monkey's sweets often sound like what mom might have made if she carried a dispensary card; this pie follows suit.

The dough is made by cutting butter into flour, then mixing in umami-rich shards of Cabot Creamery cheddar cheese. This leaves the crust tasting something like a Cheez-It--and we mean that in the best of ways.

Pink Lady and Granny Smith apples are deeply caramelized before being baked into the crust, recalling a tarte Tatin. Apple cider jelly, brown butter and vanilla bean are the finishing touches to the predominantly tart filling.

Let's hope umami continues to encroach on sugar's reign over dessert.

Umami Burger, multiple locations; umamiburger.com

Umami Los Feliz 4655 Hollywood Blvd Los Angeles CA 90027 323-669-3922 Umami La Brea 850 S. La Brea Ave. Los Angeles CA 90036 323-931-3000 Umami Urban 1520 N. Cahuenga Blvd Los Angeles CA 90028 323-469-3100 Umami Santa Monica 500 Broadway Santa Monica CA 90401 310-451-1300 Umami Valli 12159 Ventura Blvd Studio City CA 91604 818-286-9004

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