Marc Vetri would prefer you to make pasta dough without set quantities and by hand. In short, you'd be cooking with your senses—like the Philadelphia chef does.
In his third book, Mastering Pasta ($30), which will undoubtedly be acknowledged as the pasta bible, Vetri marries Old World pasta-making techniques with modern flavors. The result is a thoughtful page-turner.
In this recipe, Vetri's basic pasta dough is made using a mixture of 00 flour, durum and a good amount of egg yolks. The sauce, a simple mushroom ragout, is made of wild mushrooms that are torn or cut into irregular pieces so that each bite is unique. And incredibly delicious.
To learn more, read "Have Rolling Pin, Will Travel."
Tagliatelle with Wild Mushrooms
Recipe adapted from "Mastering Pasta: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pasta, Gnocchi, and Risotto," by Marc Vetri with David Joachim
Yield: 4 servings
Prep Time: 20 minutes, plus resting time
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes, plus resting time
For the Pasta Dough:
1 cup, plus 2 tablespoons (170 grams), type 00 flour
7 tablespoons (55 grams) durum flour
9 egg yolks
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 to 3 tablespoons water, plus more as needed
For the Mushroom Ragout:
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ medium yellow onion, very finely diced
4 cups (about 8 ounces) assorted mushrooms (such as maitake, morels and king trumpets), cut or torn into thin slices
¼ cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more to top
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided
2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary, divided
1. Make the pasta dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or on a work surface, combine both flours and make a well in the center. On medium speed, or using your fingers, mix in the egg yolks, oil and water, adding them one ingredient at a time and mixing just until the dough comes together, 2 to 3 minutes. If the dough seems dry, add another tablespoon of water.
2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and using the palms of your hands, knead the dough until it feels silky and smooth, about 8 to 10 minutes.The dough is ready when it gently pulls back into place when it is slightly stretched.
3. Shape the dough into a ball and then flatten the ball into a disk. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or chill in the fridge for up to 3 days.
4. To roll out the dough, cut it into 4 equal pieces. Let the pieces sit, covered, at room temperature for 10 minutes if chilled.
5. Shape each piece into an oval wide enough to fit the width of your pasta roller. Lightly flour your work surface and set the pasta roller to its widest setting. Lightly flour 1 piece of dough, pass it through the roller and then lightly dust the rolled dough with flour, brushing off the excess with your hands. Pass the dough through the widest setting again. Lower the setting by 1 notch and continue to pass the dough through until you've reached the desired thickness. For tagliatelle, roll the dough to about ⅛-inch thick.
6. Fit the pasta machine with the appropriate cutter and run the pasta sheets through the cutter.
7. Using floured hands, toss the pasta to keep from sticking. Cover the pasta and refrigerate it until ready to cook.
8. Meanwhile, make the mushroom ragout: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
9. In a large skillet over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the onions. Season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until lightly browned and softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. If the pan looks dry, add another tablespoon of olive oil.
10. Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling salted water and cook it two thirds of the way through, 10 to 20 seconds. The pasta will finish cooking in the sauce.
11. Drain the pasta, reserving ½ cup of the pasta cooking liquid.
12. Add the pasta, chicken stock, butter, ¼ cup Parmesan and half the parsley and rosemary to the mushroom ragout and cook, thinning with the reserved pasta cooking liquid as needed, until the pasta is coated with sauce and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Top with the remaining herbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan.