You probably take onions for granted because they're around all year long. But pay attention right now and you'll notice that every member of the allium family--from ramps to leeks--is looking fly as hell.
That's because, in the springtime, they're picked younger and sold smaller, greener and sweeter. So this is the moment to seek them out at farmer's markets, when they've got a gentler flavor and softer texture than the rest of the year along with a fresh, almost garlicky perfume.
Dress young leeks with mustard-tarragon vinaigrette (see the recipe), a more delicate version of the classic-but-clunky French dish that starts with exceptionally tender (and pretty) baby leeks. They pair beautifully with a sharp, herbaceous sauce that's extra springy if you can pound in some green garlic.
And what about ramps? Well, after you've Instagrammed your haul of wild green onions, we suggest wilting them with as many other spring onions as you can find, along with fresh peas and salty guanciale for a warm vegetable salad that's as beautiful as it is delicious (see the recipe).
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