Il Pollaio

The diner-like patina of wear this 28-year-old North Beach restaurant has accrued only makes it more comfortable; it's one of the most unpretentious bistros on Columbus Avenue. But the grilled free-range chickens, rubbed with herbs and delivered from smoke to table, are prepared just as carefully as they have been for a quarter-century. Order them with fat fries and a simple green salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar. See our previous coverage.