Our admiration for this brand-new East Village restaurant grows with every meal. The latest: a brunch for the ages, which features a German pancake, aka Dutch baby, cooked to order in a blaring-hot cast-iron oval; and house-smoked salmon, served with jars of crème fraîche and house-pickled baby beets; an open-face omelet tiled with smoked sablefish and draped with Mornay sauce, then broiled. See you there next weekend. Read our previous coverage.