Do You Fondue?

New York gets cheesy, in a good way

New York is dripping with new fondue spots.

And, since spring is creeping ever closer, there is no better time to start dipping:

The Fondue Room at Café Select: The once-secret back room of this Soho spot has been converted into a 12-seat, melted-cheese hideaway. Reach it by filing through the bustling kitchen. Fondue made with Gruyère, Apenzeller and Raclette (appetizer $20; main $40) comes with cubed country bread and cornichons for plunging.

Casimir: This East Village restaurant hosts a fondue night on Thursdays, offering melted goodness made with Beaufort, Comte and Emmenthal cheeses ($25; serves two). Side orders of bacon or garlic sausage make nice dipping accompaniments ($5 each).

The Bourgeois Pig: Ravi Derossi brought his cocktail bar to Carroll Gardens in January. Caramelized onions, beef stock and Gruyère combine beautifully in the French-onion fondue (one of a daily-changing selection of savory and sweet fondues; $25).

606 R&D: You'll have to work (only slightly) harder to dig into the Poor Man's Fondue ($6) at this brand-new Prospect Heights spot. Hearty McCadam's cheddar is heated in a winged dish in the oven with garlic and olive oil until pliable but not liquidy. Dusted with paprika, it calls for repeated dunks of bread.