Rise and Shine

A morning meal worth waking up for

You could begin your day with a sorry muffin. That's your prerogative.

We'd rather have breakfast at Boot and Shoe Service.

The Oakland restaurant opened an adjacent café in July, but it's been only six weeks since chef Jed Coté hired pastry chef Michelle Lee, late of Boulette's Larder.

That hire has been a game-changer. Now you can pair your Sightglass cappuccino with a delicate crumb cinnamon-nut coffee cake topped with streusel ($3), or order a Tcho chocolate-pistachio biscotto, fragrant with orange zest, for dunking ($2).

You're an adult, so no one will stop you if you want to have a slice of silky lemon tart ($3) first thing in the morning. If you prefer a savory start, a daily frittata is available ($3.50), as well as the pièce de résistance, an earthenware cazuela containing chickpeas and greens, topped with eggs and chile oil, all baked in the wood pizza oven ($9).

Soon that wood oven will be pressed into service beyond the eggs, though: Early next year, the restaurant will open for lunch and weekend brunch, with a menu that will include, naturally, pizzas.

Can we get our pie with a side of coffee cake?

Boot and Shoe Service, 3308 Grand Ave., Oakland; 510-763-2668 or bootandshoeservice.com