Emergency Room

Jeffrey's Grocery makes a sad day delicious

If the food world were a Greek tragedy, it'd be set in the West Village. There, Gabe Stulman recently opened his new venture, Jeffrey's Grocery, only to have his across-the-street restaurant, Joseph Leonard, felled by a fire soon after.

This sad turn of events has turned Jeffrey's into a triage center of sorts, where Joseph Leonard's staff has encamped to wait out the recovery.

On the bright side, this concentration of forces has sped the newborn through its growing pains. Plan a lazy afternoon around a glass of wine and the charcuterie board ($16 for three), made up of a silky chicken-liver-and-foie-gras terrine and ruby sheets of house-cured Lola duck breast with a smear of mustard relish.

Or seek asylum in the braised-brisket sandwich ($15): Toasted sourdough can barely soak up the dripping juice bomb of clove-and-pepper-scented beef, melted Muenster cheese and beet slaw. While you eat your sandwich, the apple-walnut cake that's been perfuming the air will finish baking just in time for you to enjoy a slice with a cup of coffee.

The team is busy bolstering Jeffrey's menu with items that echo those lost in the fire: egg sandwiches for breakfast, salads with crispy pork confit for dinner and an expanded wine list during Jeffrey's newly extended late-night hours.

Here's to a speedy recovery.

Jeffrey's Grocery, 172 Waverly Pl.; 646-398-7630 or jeffreysgrocery.com