Road to Discovery

Covell, a small wine bar with a big purpose

Serendipity can flow from a bottle of wine; it did for Dustin Lancaster and Matthew Kaner, the owner and bar manager, respectively, of Bar Covell in Los Feliz.

Both men favor Luc Lapeyre Minervois l'Amourier, a relatively obscure Rhone-style blend. When Lancaster went looking for it at Silverlake Wine, where Kaner then worked, they bonded. Several months later, Bar Covell was born.

The list of affordable, lesser-known labels offers no tasting notes because Kaner and Lancaster want you to discover something new. When you order at the bar, the questions begin: Red or white? Light or heavy? Fruit-forward or minerally?

Depending on your answers, you might be handed a glass of vibrant 2009 Domaine de la Redaudie Sauvignon Blanc ($9) or a juicy 2007 Copain Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley ($15)–and you'll probably be left wondering where this wine has been all of your life.

But since the bar buys in small quantities, chances are these revelatory bottles–like the crisp and intensely flavored 2009 Sella Majoli Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo rosé–will be gone tomorrow.

So stock up: You'll get a 10 percent discount on any bottle you buy for home.

Bar Covell, 4628 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz; 323-660-4400 or barcovell.com