Alt Bubbles

Brooklyn's new source for affordable party wine

The intersection of Atlantic and Court streets has just become more treacherous for the gastronomically minded.

There's Damascus and its falafel, Sahadi for all things Middle Eastern and Cook's Companion for kitchen essentials (and, of course, Trader Joe's). Now the Brooklyn Wine Exchange has debuted.

This new shop is run by Patrick Watson, who left nearby Smith & Vine in the hands of his wife, Michele Pravda, to open this space. Ideas he's replicated in the new spot include the $12-and-under table (vastly expanded here) and an utter disregard for wine scores.

What's different: more space–including a tasting room that fits 40–and a greater selection. Just inside the door are 60-plus New York labels, as well as a shelf stocked with "über natural" wines.

Most of the shop's bottles skew toward small, lesser-known producers (read: values). We've selected four sub-$25 bottles of bubbles for ringing in the New Year. Plus, if you mention Tasting Table you'll get a 15 percent discount on these and other sparkling wines through January 1.

NV Tintero Elvio Grangia ($12) From Piedmont, this is light as air, dry as stone and just fizzy enough to be incredibly refreshing. It's great for getting the party started before a big dinner.

NV Castellroig Cava Brut ($14) Zesty, citrusy and refreshing, with fine, tiny bubbles, this shows off cava's most appealing characteristics. It's fine for aperitifs, toasts–or anytime you're thirsty.

2007 Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Sec 2007 ($21) A little floral, a little honeyed, a little appley and yet dry, this biodynamic wine goes with anything, from cheese dip before dinner to a cheese plate afterward.

NV Renardet-Fâche Vin de Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale ($23) A blend of obscure grapes from an even more obscure French appellation, this pale-red bubbly is extremely easy to drink and its sweet-savory cherry flavor is terrific with dessert.

Brooklyn Wine Exchange, 138 Court St. (near Atlantic Ave.), Brooklyn; 718-855-9463 or brooklynwineexchange.com