Dining

Cheap Thrills | Orleans & York Deli

Po' boys and muffalettas in the key of 'Nawlins
Orleans and York
Oyster po' boy at Orleans & York Deli

If we've heard it once from New Orleans expats, we've heard it a million times: It's near impossible to find a good po' boy in Los Angeles.

Sammy Oftman hopes to change that. He's the former New York deli man behind Crenshaw's new hybrid sandwich shop, Orleans & York Deli, which specializes in heros, muffalettas and po' boys.

"New York and New Orleans are easily the two best sandwich towns in the world," explains Oftman. "I wanted to bring that quality here."

The shrimp po' boy ($11) was our favorite Louisiana facsimile: Fried seafood is crusted with pepper and accompanied by lettuce, tomato and a zip of mayo on a crusty foot-long baguette. Vinegary hot sauce, thickened with butter, is served on the side for dressing.

You can have your po' boy stuffed with gumbo ($10), catfish ($9), fried oysters ($11) or spicy hot links ($9) split and grilled until they curl like pigtails.

And while we're at it, why not try that other NOLA classic, the muffaletta ($10)? It's not served on an authentic sesame roll, but its intricate layering of mortadella, salami, capicola, provolone and Swiss with an oregano-spiked olive salad is pretty impressive by West Coast standards.

New Orleans Sno Ball
Afterwards, stop into New Orleans Sno Balls--located in the same strip mall--for powdery shaved ice ($4) doused in a rainbow's worth of sticky syrups (from Hurricane Punch to Praline to Mardi Gras King Cake) with a layer of velvety vanilla custard in-between.

Then, like the rest of us, eagerly speculate about the final season of Tremé.

Orleans & York Deli 4454 W. Slauson Ave. Los Angeles CA 90043 323-291-8800 New Orleans Sno Balls 4452 Slauson Ave. Los Angeles CA 90230 323-292-3145

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