Eric Tucker's restaurant is now 18 years old. It should be able to drive, vote and join the Marines. Even if 18 is more like 78 in restaurant years, dishes like Millennium's baby artichoke salad with freekeh (green wheat) and preserved Meyer lemons, crusted king trumpet mushrooms (a stalwart), and bastilla stuffed with kuri squash and seitan still come off as invigoratingly creative. It's a place where your vegetables still dress up for dinner.