The famous carbonara at this oft-overlooked Italian restaurant on the border of Chelsea and the Meatpacking District still delivers its signature yolky goodness. But many meals at the subterranean restaurant have yielded other favorites: crisp brussels sprouts doused with maple syrup, tender artichokes à la Romana, guanciale-studded pasta Amatriciana and a whole wheat spaghetti with cauliflower, pine nuts and currants that shines in its simplicity.