Z&Y's owners recently opened Chili House in the Inner Richmond, but it's still a shadow of its older sister: The Chinatown restaurant is still a destination for its "spicy fish with flaming chili oil," silky filets poached in a bombastically spiced broth, and its "chicken with explosive chili pepper," breaded chunks of meat fried with a quart of dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns. Double up on the rice.