Ricky's Fish Tacos

The various elements involved in a fish taco from this Virgil Avenue stand are the same as you'd find at any Baja-leaning spot around town. But in Ricky's hands, they're exponentially better. His batter is fried more crisply, his fish more flaky. The raw salsa singes with just enough jalapeƱo, and the cabbage adds a simple, cooling crunch. This is an ideal taco.