La Mar CebicherÃa
La Mar is a behemoth of a restaurant, and it can be easy to get as lost in the menu as you do en route to the bathrooms. But the Peruvian cebiches remain sharp-edged and yet pristine, with the delicate flavors of the seafood emerging from the leche de tigre marinade, and the causas, mashed potato dishes layered with ingredients like Dungeness crab and quail's eggs, are nowhere near as homey as they sound.