Cedar Hill Kitchen & Smokehouse

Pitmaster Jon Rietz, who trained at Memphis Minnie's, is doing some of San Francisco's best barbecue in this charming smoke-bath of a restaurant. Strangely for a Texas boy, his brisket may not be reliable, but his pulled pork makes carnitas taste bland and his spice-mottled chicken is more tender than you'd ever expect from a long-smoked bird. Whichever sides you order, be sure the Brussels sprouts are among them.