Ichi Sushi

Tim and Erin Archuleta's ridiculously tiny sushi bar in Bernal Heights may look rock 'n' roll. The chefs may brush white soy "gel," thickened with hydrocolloids, onto the fish in place of a traditional tare. But they're classicists when it comes to slicing sweet-fleshed fish into precise lengths, pressing together ovals of rice that collapse in the mouth, and meticulously assembling some of the city's best nigiri.